I would start at 2/4 similar pressures all around. And juust drive the car and not touch it as Nathan suggested. Too many people start messing with a million settings before they even have adequate...
To add to this, at the same time, you don't need an extra bunch of damping to control the lack of spring like a stock setup. So no need for 4/8 or something like that.
i can tell you first hand that nursing a detonating car around the track with an instructor in the car is no fun. you really need to be giving them undivided attention. its not that easy, you are...
Mechanical difference and so on make it so you can't eyeball something like that. However, it looks pretty close and safe enough to drive on it easy until you find a friend with a light or get one...
Pulled it out and washed the pollen off.
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c393/cortrim1/20130309_152605_zps684ca5bd.jpg
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c393/cortrim1/20130309_152539_zps420dc16...
What do you base this off? I'm just wanting to know your thoughts behind your statement. I can get up to 19 psi before 5500 rpm for a very brief time but it seems right at around 5500rpm ...
Not really that much of an update just been in the contacts with mazworx, j-k tuning, b15 spec v parts suppliers etc... here's just a few stuff I bought recently & did. Finishing school soon so upd...
Just buy one from TurboTank pre-built that fits the bill perfectly!
http://www.sr20-forum.com/forced-induction/52986-oh-billet-n60-n62-maf-housing-blow-through.html
I just did a VE swap and using the OEM VE ECU right now temporarily. Using it in a DE harness no problem, also using the VVL ECU output to activate cams.