Thread: Operation SR24VVL IN PROGRESS ONCE AGAIN

Here's somebody that knows more, lol.

Mike Kojima wrote:

Since we are retaining the standard bore with the SR16VE pistons, we avoided the expensive task of boring the SR block oversize. The SR20 block suffers from severe bore distortion when the head and transmission are bolted in place. The bore can distort as much as 0.0015”, an amount that can really affect ring seal or even contribute to piston scuffing. Thus it is important to use a deck torque plate and to bolt a transmission bellhousing to an SR block when it is being bored and honed to keep the bores roundness accurate in as used conditions. Not too many shops in this country can do this sort of work on an SR and packing and shipping your block to places like Jim Wolf Technology in California or Mazworks in Florida can be very expensive.

Full article: Project Low Buck Nissan SR20DE Part 2 > MotoIQ

thanks go out to Delta Cams in Tacoma. after an extensive search they finally found 1 place that has a sr20 torque plate.
Action Machine shop. its ~60 miles from here in north Seattle (Shoreline).
they want ~$206 to bore W/a torque plate. thats versus no plate boring (~$100) at Buds, or ~($53) locally. i think i'm gonna spring for the torque plate boring for the piece of mind.
their prices seem outrageous so thats all i'll have them do. the rest of the machine work will be done locally.

Well they gotta pay for that $600 dollar torque plate somehow, haha.

Ill have to come visit you when I drive through Washington next year.

BTW, $206 is not too bad for a bore and hone either. Again the extra cost is because of the extra work of using the torque plate.

You need to provide whatever studs you are using as well as the headgasket you are using. Preferably an old one so you dont mess up a good one.

some pics of a new (maz bored )oem 87mm ve-t gasket and my used 90mm pe gasket for the big block.





personal observations.....the oem ve-t gasket has a bead of (maybe) silicone based sealant (light grey) around every hole separating coolant/oil. the pe gasket seems to rely more on embossing the outer layers of the mls gasket. pe DOES use a layer of a black "something", but it's much thinner than the ve-t gasket sealant.
on a couple of the bored ve-t gasket shots you can see the shiny appearance on the fire rings where MAZ bored the hole. how much was taken off? i don't know. i'm no expert by any means but, because of the more pliable silicone type sealant i feel the ve-t gasket will work better to keep the water and oil separate than the pe. now, who's using a bored ve-t gasket on a 92mm bore?????

i really hope this works out for ya bud!

say, are you going to use the 91/92mm? crank in the 87mm bore engine? that would be interesting.

Running bored VET in both the 2.3L and 2.4L.

are those flat or stepped decked blocks?
once this small motor project is finished, i'm gonna take the 2.4 block up there and have them do a pressure test with the torque plate installed. there may be hope for the 2.4 after all (fingers crossed)

nope. not that i didn't think about it briefly

tore down the 92mm block yesterday. not surprised, the main bearings are toast. the wear get's worse as you go from #1 to #5.
i stopped driving it in time to prevent any crank damage. i'm thinking the redline synthetic saved it from spinning a bearing or two.
today i'll tear down the 86mm block and get things organized to transport both blocks to the machine shop.

fancy drain pan...cardboard box stuffed with newspaper

yuck! and this crap DIDN'T show up on the dip stick!




K1 beauty

Nice job saving that crank!