Thread: Operation SR24VVL IN PROGRESS ONCE AGAIN

You can disagree all you want but my builds that Ive done speak for themselves. Even my old motor abused to hell had no wall damage or piston skirt damage at all. Period.

And again, many many other builds Ive done that are still out there some with 40-70k miles on them.

But hey, your welcome to your opinion.

Sleeved blocks require them to ensure the sleeve doesnt lift during the bore and hone process which again happened to a buddy's motor because the shop didnt use one. Decked the block after and the sleeve sank.

You wont have that problem with stock blocks.

Everything I've ever read has said to use a tq plate on a SR even if for just a hone job.

idk about you ashton but after having as many woes as teal I wouldnt want to waste my money and take another risk at a block fucking up again.

Nada man, Again if the machine shop gets the p2w clearances right there wont be issues. The stock sleeves wont lift or pull from the block.

The differences between cylinder roundness with and without the head bolted down is not that significant when using either stock head bolts or proper head studs.

There have been tests done when using the old improper ARP's on cylinder wall distortion and it was something like .0015 vs .0005 on stock headbolts and proper studs that bottom out.

So again that right there will tell you the difference in cylinder roundness with and without the head bolted is pretty much nill.

The main thing with torque plates is for aftermarket sleeve installations. Period. Again like I said, if you are OCD and want it to be 110% picky perfect when just boring a stock block then yes use a torque plate. But again you wont even notice the difference and it wont make your motor last any longer when using one.

This information is coming from machinists with more years of experience than some of us have been alive. So say what you want.

And he has only had issues with sleeved blocks again done improperly. Just like everyone else that has had sleeved blocks done by places not using a torque plate.

I have the PE headgasket with no issues. Two years now and never had to touch my engine. Holding over 600hp. It's not a big bore motor but it gets abused regular.

The reason for torque plate is to simulate the head being torqued down which can cause distortion and to make sure the bores are centered. I would recommend using one no matter if your block is sleeved or not.

I didn't realize Rob posted a video about this already, sorry.

Again of course its recommended if you have access to one or the shop has one but again its not something that is 110% necessary on a stock sleeve block.

To each their own though.

Don't forget we have aluminum blocks with steel sleeves.

Exactly my point. There is a video floating around the internet which shows a piston falling straight down once stresses were introduced to the block. @LANCESR20 showed me the video...I just can't find it anymore. :o

Will it work without a torque plate? Yes...but that is like half-assing it. Anything will work. The difference lies in how its done.

...but Ashton knows more than everyone.

It isnt half assing anything. Most machine shops dont have an SR20 torque plate and when your doing just a basic build your not going to pay that much extra to send the block somewhere that does have one. Again the difference of .0005 is not a whole lot and again if p2w clearances are done right by the shop you wont have any extra piston wear or over not using one. Again ive seen this first hand and again, ive got motors out there that i built 7 years ago that are still running 100% to this day in drift cars and street cars.

The only thing that .0005 out of round at the top of the cylinder will cause is a very very very slight decrease in ring sealing ability and thats about it. You wont even notice it.

Yes if you have a place nearby that has a torque plate then by all means use it. It is the best way to do bore and honing on our motors. If you have access to it why not use it.

I think your just taking it to an extreme of it will make or break a build and that is not true at all.

Ive been first hand around machine shops and machine work, i dont know everything or more than everyone. I only speak from my own personal experience and measurements i know that have been taken of the difference of using one and not using one.

Best thing you can do to keep cylinder distortion down is to use proper studs or oem headbolts.

I remember reading first hand about that test of the improper ARP's being used on our blocks and cylinder distortion being .0015 at the tops of the bores because of them vs less than .0005 with proper studs and oem headbolts.