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Thread: Operation SR24VVL IN PROGRESS ONCE AGAIN

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Posts: 841-850 of 1,077
2012-03-28 20:27:39
#841
update?
2012-03-29 03:14:02
#842
so. i was hoping () the reason for the weird switching was the tach input to the 8969's (still running 2). so i spent a good part of the day pulling my dash apart, removing the little 18 gauge wire that i branched off the ecu-tach signal wire 6yrs ago. i replaced it with a beefy 12 gauge using crimp connectors.
put it all back together and took her for a spin. the 1st few times it worked as advertised, woohoo! then it was right back to stupid shit. intake switch seems to work O.K.
other than rewiring, i've replaced the exhaust solenoid with 1 from the spare motor, no change. i've energized both solenoids using batt power. they click good.
next step will be to bypass the exh 8969 and run both solenoids from the intake 8969. btw, i'm not using ANY relays in the system. maybe this is a problem?? tomorrow i'll get back into it.
Last edited by Teal97 on 2012-04-24 at 22-12-38.
2012-03-29 03:32:43
#843
No you should be able to switch it directly from the box without a relay. The box is meant to handle that load (which is small anyways). Seems like a box issue. Like others mentioned just hit both cams on at the same time using the box for the intake.
2012-03-29 03:34:07
#844
Also is the box asking you to get a tach signal off the tach signal from the ecu? Most msd boxes ive seen require you to get the signal off the coil itself for rpm. Maybe yours is different?
2012-03-29 04:05:45
#845
Originally Posted by ashtonsser
No you should be able to switch it directly from the box without a relay. The box is meant to handle that load (which is small anyways). Seems like a box issue. Like others mentioned just hit both cams on at the same time using the box for the intake.


ya, i think its a box issue. tomorrow i'll use the intake 8969 to run both. when researching the granatelli switch, the instructions say DO NOT use it to activate solenoids. use a relay. its rated @ 2amps. the 8969 is rated @ 2.5amps continuous. hmmm.

Originally Posted by ashtonsser
Also is the box asking you to get a tach signal off the tach signal from the ecu? Most msd boxes ive seen require you to get the signal off the coil itself for rpm. Maybe yours is different?


we found out yrs ago that on the b14, getting tach signal from the green wire @ the distributor is unreliable as hell. better to take it from where i did or down @ the ecu (same wire).
2012-03-29 04:09:27
#846
Hmm, On my buddies b14 and on my b13 i got the tach signal from the coil like it shows in the instructions and never had an issue. Cut the two wires on the side so that it represents a 4 cylinder motor and all was good.

Again maybe the 8969 is different in that aspect. Never used one.
2012-03-29 05:44:22
#847
My 8969 worked fine off the coil on my last setup. I changed it to the ecu and it worked fine too. This setup I have it off the ECU as well.
2012-03-29 22:13:07
#848
finished the wiring changes for just the 1 intake 8969. tested in the garage by plugging in only the intake cam, set the switch to 2300 rpm, slowly increased rpm to the switch point, works fine.
then unplugged the intake and plugged in the exh. cam only, did the same little test, it works fine.
took the car for a spin. did the same test with switch set to 4300. intake only... can definitely feel the increased acceleration @ 4300 as the intake kicks on.
unplug the intake cam, plug in the exhaust cam. hit 4300 rpm, boom! better acceleration as the exh. cam kicks
stop the car, plug the intake back in. so now BOTH cams are plugged in. test acceleration as we hit 4300....wtf, not as good as with either cam by itself. but hit 6k and hang on to the wheel, buddy. exactly like it was with 2 8969's running things
so then i start think about the tune. maybe i need to add fuel @, or just before the cam switch point? so i pull up the tprt maps. what i did was add fuel from (.2) from 4k up in the last 4 columns.
i also added 1* timing from 4k to 5400 in the last 2 columns.
time for another test run....whoops, top row of timing is at 25* in the last 2 columns

here's a screen shot of fuel/timing
http://img205.imageshack.us/img205/6105/20120329143801.png
2012-03-29 22:17:58
#849
i think i remember seeing you say your afr's were in the mid 11's? now, correct me if im wrong and i probably am for some reason or another, but isn't that way way way to rich??

anything below 12.5:1 afr in my car n/a an im losing power.. i know the 2.4 high comp is a different beast, but surely you dont need to run such rich afr's? from the reading i've done for turboing 11.5 is still pretty rich for turbos, an what can happen is the fuel washes the oil off the cylinder walls.
2012-03-29 22:45:50
#850
Im wondering if your not getting enough oil to completely activate them down low? Have you checked and cleared the filter / screen in the selenoid block?
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