Thread: Operation SR24VVL IN PROGRESS ONCE AGAIN

i'll pull it tomorrow and seal it up.
question...whats the best way to prime the oil pump prior to full on start-up? i've never started a motor after a rebuild before. here's my thoughts. pour motor oil over the valve train.
a couple ounces of marvel mystery oil in the spark plug holes. remove the cap/rotor. no spark plugs. no fuel pressure (pull fuse). hit the key for a couple seconds. watch oil pressure gauge for building pressure. stop. hit the key a second time. repeat till oil pressure builds on gauge. hook stuff back up and go for the gusto
am i being TOO cautious? what else/different?
a million thanks

That sounds like a good plan. Id pull the fuel pump fuse too.

Stratton.

all the vehicles i've been in (including my truck) that has an oil pressure gauge i dont see any pressure until the engine actually starts.. now that could be because i've never tryed to start em with nothin hooked up an just let em crank.. so im not sure if you will see any pressure building on the gauge or not... however your plan seems fairly simple and safe.. i cant think of anything else i'd do..

on some older datsun engines you can hook the oil pump shaft up to a drill to prime it..

and on the toyota 20/22r engines your suppose to pack the oil pump housing with vasoline or grease or else it'll take for ever to get pressure..

im sure you will be ok man, i think if there was some specific way to doit on an sr it would of been coverd on one of the forums already lol

every engine ive done whether it be a build or a jdm motor. I always just unplug the distro so that no spark and fuel pulses occur and crank the motor for 15-20 seconds. You probably wont see any psi during the cranking unless you have a really high cranking amp battery and rediculously good starter. haha. But plug the distro back in and start it up. You should see oil pressure within 3-5 seconds. If you see no pressure after say 7 seconds or so i would shut it off and inspect. Maybe try one more round of 15-20 seconds with the distro unplugged and then give it another start.

If no oil pressure after that, there is a problem. I made the mistake after crushing my oil pump (by accident without knowing) and ran the motor 3 seperate times for 30 seconds to a minute reving it to 3-4k trying to build pressure. My top rings ended up getting worn and stuck causing some blowby issues and slightly low compression.

So if for some reason after it starts you dont see oil pressure just shut it off and inspect.

You dont really need to prime anything.

If you have the materials, what you can do that i see a lot of machine shops do is put the 4 quarts of oil into a pesticide sprayer that you can pump up to build pressure, attach a fitting into the oil pressure sending unit and then attach the hose from the bottle and pump away while turning the motor over by hand slowly This will put oil into the oil pump, filter, and all oil passages all the way up to the cam oiling tubes. Do that until all 4 quarts are used and you should be good.

Thats a little overboard in my opinion and ive never had a problem just doing the cranking to prime and then start.

Pull coil wire, pull fuel pump fuse. If you still have your idiot light for oil pressure, crank the motor 3-5 seconds per round until the light goes out. Do one or two after to make sure the light stays out. Replace coil wire & fuse then start her up. You shouldn't have any startup clatter whatsoever. Everytime I change my oil I use this method, works every time. Mystery Oil in the cylinders is an excellent idea, as well as generous lubrication of the valve train when starting a freshly rebuilt motor.

also put engine assembly lube on the cam lobes before you turn it, helps break them in no matter what your psi is on the oil press

I just saw the pics of your manifold and it looks a lot shorter than 5speeds. At 1st I thought it was just a little short but I could be wrong.

^Wow. Now that is a bit different. What size motor does 5speed have?

judging by how close his is to the firewall, his looks to be about an inch longer. maybe a little more. in fact, look at how different the firewalls ARE! on the b14 there is just a single lip that protrudes and is welded. his looks way different to me. b14>p10

That's actually a P10. And you're right, the P10 engine bay has less room on the back side than a B14.....I found out the hard way when I put the VE in and broke my TPS on the cruise control thingy. DOH!