Thread: Operation SR24VVL IN PROGRESS ONCE AGAIN

Nah, def go with the process of elimination, easiest first.

You might be right though, that maybe something the person who put the head back together was unaware of. I remember reading something about that also, because I followed greg's how to when I did my first cam swap, and have continued using his method since. Shit happens sometimes, I like to think of things like that as opportunities to learn how to not do things hehe.

You'll get it man. then we can race!!

yesterday i removed the solenoid block and inspected the screen. the screen was in finger tight so i simply unscrewed it and found that it was completely clear of any obstruction. so then it was on to the exhaust cam rocker shaft. here's a quick how to.
remove the following parts.... valve cover, spark plugs, (set engine to mechanical tdc), distributor, (zip tie intake cam to gear), exhaust cam gear, exhaust cam, 10mm allen screw below distributor (w/washer), 5mm allen rocker shaft lock screw to the left of #1 exhaust rocker.
after removing the lock screw i inserted a small screw driver in the access hole below the distributor (created by removing the 10mm allen) and pushed gently while holding my left index finger over the opposite end of the shaft (in the timing chain area).
it only had to move ~1/2 inch to find the little oil holes in the side of the shaft were pointed towards the center of the engine.
now what?

The holes in those shafts are off center, so it is not possible to screw or install them upside down

Unless someone messed with them and maybe bored the hole out previously? ??

that makes sense from an engineering stand point (dummy proofing). i didn't try to turn it 180* and re-install the lock screw though.
think i'll clean the shaft and solenoid block in solvent before reassembly. maybe there's some internal blockage.

looks like she's running a little lean also. these are the 7's i just put in!

Cant judge the plug that way. The car may have sat and idled for some time before pulling them.

The way to read a plug the right way is take a full load rip to red line and kill the engine at highest RPM. That will tell you exactly what is happening.

Or take it to whatever RPM you want the reading at and kill the engine.

update dude

ask, and ye shall receive
being busy with other stuff i only had 1 day to work on it...
so i pulled the exh rocker shaft to check for obstructions (oil flows through it to activate the big lobes)..checked out good. i'm also gonna swap over the solenoid block just for giggles.
while the shaft was out i swapped the rockers with the ones from the spare motor since there's no scuffing on those pads. i did find that the oil film between the rocker and shim creates a "stiction" that lets go at the most in-opportune time. so naturally a shim would drop off the rocker and HAD to go down an oil return hole in the head. not wanting to try the magnet trick to fish it out, i instead used a 1/2" OD clear vinyl hose, duck taped to my shop-vac, and sucked that frocker out.
during re-assembly i set the cs cam gear to -2*. Monday i'll finish the job by moving the solenoid grounds from the engine to the battery and keep my fingers crossed during the test-drive

update