Thread: Went to the dyno last night, tell me what you think

Ok, its Sat morning. I am waiting for dynos. This last week took a long time for me. Yeah!!

Ok, bit of stuff to work thru, and we ran into some tuning issues, it was fine last weekend, been parked in the garage all week and sudenly its lean, did a quick retune and added some fuel, but still needs heaps more up top.

It had the most mid range torque by a fair way compared to just about every other car, interesting my almost completely stock 20v wagon made almost as much torque and only 12kw less atw.

I need to scan the page tommorow and get some stuff up, but really it needs a bit more tweaking on the tuning and another dyno run to be fair.

Its still making excellent power, and there is no doubt the 20v low lobes are the shiznit.

Evlnxr, the diffrence of 12Kw @ the wheels is alot. Thats 16 WHP. If you consider that the diffrence between the 2 motors is N1 cams, 3 inch exhaust and filter. I would give 8 WHP to the cams, 3 WHP to the filter and 5 WHP to the exhaust. Now you said the car needs more tuning so there should be HP to get up top.

Can you tell me what was the peak KW to the wheels this time around, even though there is more tuning to go or how much more peak did it make than the first runs you posted.

and the wag



Having issues with a massive flat spot no matter where i switch the intake cam. If the line had continued without the big dip on cam change, and a bit more tuning up top, it prob would have hit 140. Interesting the profile further up is very similar in power to the stage 4's before the n1's run out of puff.

It seems to me by the dip downward that the cam is being switched to early. I feel if you switch the cams at 6400-6600 RPMs that dip would go away and the mid range would be stronger. That being said.

Please take a look at the 20V cam listed below. Then look at the cam I have proposed.

SR20VE (20V)

Intake cam
Low duration: 228deg
Low lift 10.10mm
Low center angle: 114deg

High duration: 278deg
High lift: 12.00 mm
High center angle: 114deg

Exhaust cam
Low duration: 244deg
Low lift: 8.30mm
Low center angle: 106deg

High duration: 280deg
High lift: 11.15mm
High center angle: 108deg




Upgraded to 20V cam
Just a proposal for discussion..

Intake cam
Low duration: 236deg
Low lift 10.50mm
Low center angle: 114deg

High duration: 284deg
High lift: 12.40 mm
High center angle: 114deg

Exhaust cam
Low duration: 252deg
Low lift: 8.80mm
Low center angle: 106deg

High duration: 282deg
High lift: 12.10mm
High center angle: 108deg

To keep it simple. you could leave the 20V bottoms and make the adjustment to the top to be safe. I will give the specs bellow for the top lobe adjustments

SR20VE (20V) Cam With Adjusted High Lobes

Intake cam
Low duration: 228deg
Low lift 10.10mm
Low center angle: 114deg

High duration: 286deg
High lift: 12.40 mm
High center angle: 114deg

Exhaust cam
Low duration: 244deg
Low lift: 8.30mm
Low center angle: 106deg

High duration: 284deg
High lift: 12.10mm
High center angle: 108deg

very lean at the point down low where the power is bad
possibly knock sensor activity

This is gettin' good...

it is very lean where just before the cams switch, power, torque and air/fuel all dip at the same time, defiantly could be a relationship here

i dont like miko adjusted cams much to be honest, due to the high flow numbers on the intake and relatively low on the ex i dont think it will work well with the ex duration lower than the intake

however due to the similar relation ship between n1's and fs4's up top would be interesting to see if the 20v lobes would work well with the fs4's (maybe with a little more advance on the intake as it makes power to 9k and keeps climbing, but the advance on the intake might bring the power on a little earlier). This is assuming that tunning will fix the dip.

Well, its a bit lean before the switch of the intake cam, and then it goes rich, prob because the ecu is overcompensating with it being lean, and the airflow changing all of a sudden.

Will have to see how tuning goes, hopefully we can do it on the dyno.

Given that peak power is around 8500 rpm, i cant really see too many advantages trying the stage 4 high lobes again, i would hope that with a bit more tuning we could get it to 140kw at 8500 or so, but if we can keep the fat mid range torque, then it will be awesome.

"Darryl","Evlnxr",525,580nm,,, 20v n1's
"Adrian/Amdeman","CKQ925",500,550nm,,, N1's (genuine)
"Carla","R3spct",520,520nm,,, 20v stock
"James","Helc4t",450,480nm,,, stage 4's

Took this of a spreadsheet, 1st figure is around 4k, 2nd figure is peak torque ATW on the rolling road.

Regardless of anything else, it would seem the 20v low lobes make excellent torque on a 20v engine. There was another car there with a p11ve engine, and 20v cams and pistons, but they have had ongoing tuning issues and is prob not a good representitive.