Thread: Went to the dyno last night, tell me what you think

At the end of the day there are truely only 2 cam setups that need to me made.


Cam 1. 20V Low lobes and N1 High lobes ( great Bolton Motor cam )

Cam 2. Small tweak on 20V low lobes and a something Bigger than N1s ( 12 to1 Compression and higher or 2.2-2.4 L motor cams )

What are you waiting for?
Sounds to me like you are the man to make this happen.
I will take a set of "Cam1"

hmm it almost seems like the f4's need to be switched earlier, however if they dip when switched any earlier you then need to see what the 20v low lobe looks like if reved to 6k. However it looks like the f4's low lobe ex dips at 5600 anyway, maybe this is when the f4's should be switched? or possibly a slightly smaller ex cam?

Went back to the dyno today to get some details a bit straighter. This is the same headers as the 20v cams.

So the blue is the 20v, and the red the stage 4's. The 20v headers gave it a bit more top end, so 140wkw/190whp, but lost even more mid range than the p11 headers on the stage 4's.

Cams were prob switching a bit early on the dyno, quite noticable steps, but the average line is quite straight, so they are killing the power on switchover, but not really affecting the power other than that.

The peak at the top is 9000rpm, so still climbing in power up top.

Im still thinking the 20v low lobes, and N1 or stage 4 high lobes, and switching cams at around 6 to 6500.

Dyno operator was telling me he had a p11 engine with aftermarket pistons, extra compression and no head work make 145kw/195 atw on his dyno, so if N1's can be reproduced with those sort of figures, they may out do the stage 4's on our dyno too, and maybe at a few less rpm, would be nice.

Hey EVLNXR,

Nice numbers! huge difference in those power curves though! would be interesting to see a straight N1 cam swap to see the three over lapped.

Was gonna comment on your "no higher than 134kw on this particular Dyno" but you now know about one of the higher powered sr20ve's that's been on that dyno.
they'll be talking about this car: http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Cars/Nissan/auction-159866627.htm
not sure how long that link will stay active though.....that's Pennyfan from the old sr20 forum.....for the mods it's a shame he didn't make more power!!
anyway, look forward to seeing a few results from the ve dyno day in october.
nismotoy.

I didnt know about pennyfan at that stage, and not quite sure what his mods are, but the N1 cams do look interesting. Its interesting that the Americans tried the Franklin stage 4's and got 175 or 180whp (i could search, but i think it was around that ), and they can get 200 on N1's (diferent dynos, once again i could search but its late here and ive just finished pulling the clutch out of a Impul P11 2.2de)

Wonder if we could get him to turn up to the dyno day, or the new owner if it sells.

Stage 4 runs.

Evlnxr.

What springs are you running on your car? I know the retainers have to be stock.

I love the 20V header but a good 4 into 1 should beat it also.

There is no need to have that guy with the N1s come to the dyno unless you have him let you use the cams or you guys can switch cams for a mixed result on both cars.

There was never a dought that the F4s could rev high. My complain was that the power band was to small up top and that the N1s have a much more usable power band.

You can now see what I have been saying since this has started. 20v low lobes and N1 high lobes will destroy anything. Lets say the N1s peak at 8000 RPMs which is about 500 RPMs later than the 20vs and hold the power nicely out to 9000. The usable power band combination for the 20v L and N1 H would make for the most devestating power band.

Owning an everyday driven car and reving it past 9000 RPMs on a daily basis to go fast will not last long. Having the 20V L and N1 Hs would make for a perfect torque monster down low and you would have a much more useable and engine friendly power band up high. The area under the curve would completly destroy the F4s.

I cant wait to see more progress on your part.

In conclusion. Tell Franklin to make the 20V L and N1 high and give it a new designation like F5s and then makes some corrections to the full out race cams with + 20V Ls ( not much more )and something alittle more aggressive than N1s high lobes up top.

Thank you very much.

The dyno day will still show some interesting things, theres quite a mix of different setups and cams going to be there.

Stock valve springs, i beleive they are stronger than stock p11 ve.

I def dont want to rev it that hard all the time, so the stage 4's are not doing it for me.

I'd like to try the N1's, and am totally with you that the theory of the 20v low and N1/stage4 highs would be a wicked cam. Obviously i havent tested N1's, but if stage 3's are actually identical, i may be able to borrow a set from a guy thats getting a rebuild done and taking his time.

Ive emailed the latest chart to adrian at franklins, and will call him tommorow, i didnt want to skew the results with the fact i changed the headers too. I didnt get the overlay, but the 20v headers lost even more mid range power than the p11ve headers, but a bit more up top and it was still climbing.

Ive got the gear and the skills to make a set of headers, and a couple of designs from Burns to work off, just need to get the pipe and plates and i'll get to making some.

Please try to keep the header and cam combinations the same, as not to mess up the sampling. This will allow you to get a true diffrence in power between all cams and will leed to a final conclusion.

I am so happy to see this happening. If this 20V L and N1 high cam can be made it will be a great ocation for the VE guys. This will then move the direction on cam developemnt forward to making larger cams starting off with a better base cam that being 20V L and N1 H.

I myself having a 2.3L 20V want something a little bigger. Figuring that N1s make peak HP on my 2l at 7900 RPMs. They should make peak HP on the 2.3L VE at 7300 RPMs as the big motor eats them up. My goal for a cam for my 2.3L motor is to have peak HP back at 8000 RPMs. This will allow me to keep the shift points I am looking for to trap 112 MPH in the 1/4 mile with my G20T gear box at about 8200 RPMs. My shift point would be 8500 RPMs.