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Thread: Went to the dyno last night, tell me what you think

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Posts: 21-30 of 210
2008-09-19 21:09:24
#21
Ive spoken to adrian at franklins about this, it just depends for me what his price is going to be, and any return i can get on the stage 4's. Money is getting a bit short this month, so dont know if i can afford to pay full price for more cams, ie going direct to kelfords.

I agree tho, the 20v low lobe thing is the way to go. The low lobes intakes on the stage 4's are deff not right, it makes very little difference when i switch them, from 2000 to 5000 rpm, it all feels the same, but if i only switch the exhaust its def missing power.

The stage 4's seem to go well at top end on a stock engine, how they compare in power to N1's will be answered at out dyno day next month as there is a relativly stock p11ve motor with stage 4's, and another with N1's, both tuned by the same person.

I'll call adrian later today and see if i can drop the 20v cams off for him to examine and give me an idea on price.
2008-09-19 21:20:23
#22
Evlnxr do you have a MSN account. I want to chat to you about cams and how they should be made. I have had a plam on cams for the last 4 years or so but alot of people have laughed at me.

I go this cam thing down.


Please if it is possible, please run a set of real Nissan N1 cams straight up against a set of Franklin Stage 4s straight up.

I am sick and tired of people telling me they are testing Franklin stage 3 which are the same or close as N1s.

If I can get some figures on these two cams straigh up, I got a cam shaft in mind or I will do a little tweaking to my figures.


Like I have said from day one 20V bottoms are the way to go. We already have half of the puzzle we now need to finish the rest,
2008-09-19 21:25:08
#23
Oh by the way can you tell me on your graph in 250 RPM incraments from 4000 up what your power was. This is very important.
2008-09-19 21:28:37
#24
Originally Posted by Andreas
I have said it many a time, one of these companies needs to make a cam starting off with the 20V small lobes and then putting something on the top lobe to rival the N1.

What is so hard about doing this?

If the 20V cam has every cam beat down low thats a great palce to start.

I would be happy with 20V bottoms and somehing just a little bit bigger than N1s.

No one wants to listen.


Not just for na either, in fact if i could get i set i would be willing to do some testing with turbo.

my idea is 20v intake, 20vet ex. Go to the dyno with a st of veneirs and get the cam timing spot on for these matched. Then for the high lobes someting like a hks stage 3 of high lift duration trust cam. Something around 272in 276 ex


just think of these low lobes for turbo. 228 10.1 in and 244 11.3 ex....that will give some massive torque and low down power there

Originally Posted by Evlnxr
Ive spoken to adrian at franklins about this, it just depends for me what his price is going to be, and any return i can get on the stage 4's. Money is getting a bit short this month, so dont know if i can afford to pay full price for more cams, ie going direct to kelfords.

I agree tho, the 20v low lobe thing is the way to go. The low lobes intakes on the stage 4's are deff not right, it makes very little difference when i switch them, from 2000 to 5000 rpm, it all feels the same, but if i only switch the exhaust its def missing power.



The stage 4's seem to go well at top end on a stock engine, how they compare in power to N1's will be answered at out dyno day next month as there is a relativly stock p11ve motor with stage 4's, and another with N1's, both tuned by the same person.

I'll call adrian later today and see if i can drop the 20v cams off for him to examine and give me an idea on price.

does franklim currently have a turbo cam profile?
2008-09-19 21:50:08
#25
Yep, I think 20vs on turbo with some cam gears and about 10 degrees taken out of each cam to reduce the overlap would be out of hand.
2008-09-20 11:22:58
#26




I think the 20V cam could have made more HP and torque in the mid range.

You switched the 20V at 4800 and the curve dropped down a bit. You can see before you switched the cams over the power curve was still going up.

I think the perfect shift point would have been 5400 RPMs. The transition would have been so smooth you would not have seen it on the graph.
2008-09-20 11:32:23
#27
Ok, so

the 20v is at 125 WKw @ 7500 RPMs

the K4s is at 134 Wkw @ 8100 RPMs

10 WKw diffrence = 13.4 WHP diffrence

6800 RPMs is the x over point on Hp and Torque


So by the graph the F4s makes 5 WKw over the 20V at 7500 RPMs

and

at 8100 RPMs the F4s make 12 WKw over the 20vs
2008-09-20 11:35:03
#28
Evlnxr. can you get a set of N1 cams and have them tested and layed over on that same Graph that you have.

What we are looking for is the same dyno, and about the same temp outside when doing so.

By the way great job.
2008-09-20 11:54:22
#29
That 15 KW + diffrence in the 5700 RPM section that the 20V cam has over the F4s is huge.

So from 2000-6400 the 20vs are just completely over powering the F4s by an average of 7 Kw.

There is no need to shift a NA car more than 500 RPM past its peak HP which is 8100 RPMs for the F4s. After that the car is starting to slow down. You do so to use the most of the torque curve and the HP curve.


So the usable powerband is 6800-8600 RPMs where the F4s outpower the 20vs. Thats a 1800 RPM spand.

Once we get the N1 overlays we will have something.
2008-09-20 12:59:24
#30
RPMs-----F4s-----20V

3000-----40-------45 = +5
3500-----48-------54 = +6
4000-----57-------63 = +6
4500-----64-------67 = +3
5000-----73-------80 = +7
5500-----87-------97 = +10
6000-----93-------105 = +12
6500----113------116 = +3
7000----125------121 = -4
7500----129------125 = -4
8000----134------122 = -12
8500----133------118 = -15
9000----128------110 = -18
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