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Thread: Opinions on my VE's death

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Posts: 31-40 of 43
2008-09-17 13:06:44
#31
jeebus!
2008-09-17 13:43:25
#32
The other cylinders have aluminum peaces in them because from the number 3 cylinder. Once the intake valve is open it pushes the pcs out on the compression stroke into the intake plenum and then it gets sucked down another cylinder.

If you are goinng to toss the head I would like to gets some parts off of it.

I would like to get the shims that the valve springs sit on.
2008-09-17 13:48:12
#33
can you see from the pics if i can salvage the head? i sent the pics to mazworx and im hoping they can machine it down but im not holding my breath.
2008-09-17 13:58:36
#34
Anything can be fixed. It all depends how much money you want to spend to do so.

I would toss the head.

Keep the rockers, selenoids, cams and valvecover and sell them. Some of the valves might be good so keep those to.
2008-09-17 14:20:28
#35
I'm with Dre. I don't know much about VE's in general, but you could recoup some of the cost by selling the salvageable parts from the head. It would be cheaper IMO, to buy another VVL head and do some work to it, rather than cleaning up that head and then doing work to it.
2008-09-23 07:58:49
#36
Originally Posted by Andreas
Stock cams and stock valve train is a no no past 7900 RPMs. This is even more so if you happen to hit the rev limiter hard. If you hit the rev limiter hard the chain will snam back just a hair. This will cause the valves to hit the pistons, please remeber that the valves themselves were already floating just a bit and the action of hitting the rev limiter made this worse.

By the way guys N1 cams and stock SR20VE valve train and 8500 RPMs seems to hold up just fine. I have to guys down here that are on stcok valve train and N1 cams and these gusy find themselves up at 8000-8500 RPMs all the time.

The N1 cams have a very smooth open and closing because of their long duration and %of lift to duration. N1 springs are actually softer than stock SR20VE springs.


so miko would it be better to remove the rev limiter completely on a ve rather than chancing hitting it and doing damage.
2008-09-24 05:00:32
#37
Uh, no. Either way you are screwed haha. Just kidding, I actually ran my car with no limiter when I was NA. Never had a problem, but you have to watch out for wheel spin. I would just buy a digital 6 box or something. Don't rev so high, the stock cams lose power after 7200rpm anyway.
2008-09-25 02:08:24
#38
i believe the digital 6 rev limiter is for the two stage. i have the digital sci+ and it only has the nitrous retard and the two step rev limiter. maybe it has a rev limiter and im an idiot(which is entirely possible)
2008-09-25 07:24:25
#39
Well my Digital 6 has a 2 step, Rev Limiter and Nitrous retard
2008-09-26 02:16:39
#40
I stand corrected, the digital 6 does in fact have two separate rev limiters and two separate timing retard dials. i thought it was the same as the digital sci plus but i guess not.
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