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Thread: Opinions on my VE's death

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Posts: 21-30 of 43
2008-09-10 02:08:11
#21
... I called it??? wow.
2008-09-10 03:39:47
#22
it was around 8200 or so. i think the rev limit on the tune is 8250. i got to tearing it down a little tonight and i pulled the header off and there was oil in cylinders 1-3, but 4 was clean. That would explain all but 1 of the plugs being f-ed up. i'm going to hopefully drop the motor out by friday, and ill pull the head and see the chaos that im sure is inside. i thought that i would be good at 8k but i guess not. I guess this is an excuse to rebuild it bigger and better.
2008-09-10 03:48:57
#23
What cams do you have? I searched your threads but didnt find the answer, didnt want to search through all of your posts.
2008-09-10 04:19:26
#24
as far as i know they are stock. I haven't put n1's in or anything. That's not to say that they werent installed before i purchased the motor.
2008-09-10 11:44:13
#25
Originally Posted by silvia1320
it was around 8200 or so. i think the rev limit on the tune is 8250. i got to tearing it down a little tonight and i pulled the header off and there was oil in cylinders 1-3, but 4 was clean. That would explain all but 1 of the plugs being f-ed up. i'm going to hopefully drop the motor out by friday, and ill pull the head and see the chaos that im sure is inside. i thought that i would be good at 8k but i guess not. I guess this is an excuse to rebuild it bigger and better.



Stock cams and stock valve train is a no no past 7900 RPMs. This is even more so if you happen to hit the rev limiter hard. If you hit the rev limiter hard the chain will snam back just a hair. This will cause the valves to hit the pistons, please remeber that the valves themselves were already floating just a bit and the action of hitting the rev limiter made this worse.

By the way guys N1 cams and stock SR20VE valve train and 8500 RPMs seems to hold up just fine. I have to guys down here that are on stcok valve train and N1 cams and these gusy find themselves up at 8000-8500 RPMs all the time.

The N1 cams have a very smooth open and closing because of their long duration and %of lift to duration. N1 springs are actually softer than stock SR20VE springs.
2008-09-10 14:23:34
#26
^^^^ That is very interesting miko. I have thought about this many times and I didn't understand why people were changing springs to go to the N1 cams. The ramp angles are very very soft.

Sorry this is off topic, but what about the 20V cams?
2008-09-10 14:34:58
#27
SR20VE 20V cams have the most aggressive lift to duration.

SR20VE cams are next in line

SR16VE cams are next in line

N1 cams have the least aggressive lift to duration


N1 SR16VE motors have the softest springs.

SR20VE and SR16VEs are next in line ( from what I have heard some of the newer SR16VE run the same springs as N1s.

SR20VE 20V have the stiffest springs.
2008-09-10 15:49:09
#28
i went for springs for insurance, theyre not particularly expensive IMHO.
compare it to a rebuild or replacement motor.
2008-09-11 06:55:05
#29
Originally Posted by Andreas
Stock cams and stock valve train is a no no past 7900 RPMs. This is even more so if you happen to hit the rev limiter hard. If you hit the rev limiter hard the chain will snam back just a hair. This will cause the valves to hit the pistons, please remeber that the valves themselves were already floating just a bit and the action of hitting the rev limiter made this worse.

By the way guys N1 cams and stock SR20VE valve train and 8500 RPMs seems to hold up just fine. I have to guys down here that are on stcok valve train and N1 cams and these gusy find themselves up at 8000-8500 RPMs all the time.

The N1 cams have a very smooth open and closing because of their long duration and %of lift to duration. N1 springs are actually softer than stock SR20VE springs.


2008-09-17 05:48:35
#30
Update guys. I took the head off today and OMG. I am not entirely sure if I can use the head again. The cylinders dont look scored at all, but that #3 piston is destroyed. Also I noticed the other pistons have some deep scratches and pitting on them. Is that from detonation or the valves? I ask because it is all over the dome and none of the other valves are broken.

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