Realtime ECU that activates the VVL
Well, last night I installed the Calum Realtime ECU that has the switching ability to turn my VVL solenoids on and off.
I downloaded the BIN onto the ECU, physically installed it in the car, ran the wires, connected them to the solenoids and took it for a drive. Worked perfect first try!
It was after midnight when I got the install done.. So I'm going to play with the tuning ability of the ECU more this week.
I switched from my factory 96' G20 OBD II ECU to the Calum RT, and the annoying "pop, pop, pop" from my exhaust is mostly gone now. The car was running rich before, and now it's running smoother.
I've looked at a few threads here and can't wait to start tuning!
I have an innovative automotive wideband O2 to install as well, so that should help me with street tuning. Then I'll move on to the dyno.
*UPDATED*
Pictures as requested:
The Calum RT "open" ECU looks very much like any other OBD II ECU, with the exception of three wires coming out the back of the unit. A USB cable, and two wires (a blue one and a white one). The blue one is for switch one and the white one is for switch two.
As you can see, Calum supplies a nice set of quick disconnect connectors for the Solenoid switch wires.
I simply routed the wires under the dash, through the access port to the drivers side fender and then through the inner fender to the engine bay (near the battery).
For +12V, I used an inline fuse pictured below:
Calum also supplied a nifty set of heat shrink/soldering coupler connectors, pictured here:
And the prep work would look just like this:
When they're installed correctly with a heat gun (or a butane soldering iron/torch, that isn't out of butane), the couplers would look like this:
This is how mine ended up looking, until I get a heat gun (or butane for my soldering torch):
When I put the cover back over the center console, you can't even tell anything is different:
And for me, getting access to the USB cable is as easy as removing the ashtray (my coin holder) and pulling the cable out for use:
Note: Make sure to zip tie the USB cable to a bracket (like the one the center console side cover screws into), to keep it from getting unplugged from the ECU it's self).
I downloaded the BIN onto the ECU, physically installed it in the car, ran the wires, connected them to the solenoids and took it for a drive. Worked perfect first try!
It was after midnight when I got the install done.. So I'm going to play with the tuning ability of the ECU more this week.
I switched from my factory 96' G20 OBD II ECU to the Calum RT, and the annoying "pop, pop, pop" from my exhaust is mostly gone now. The car was running rich before, and now it's running smoother.
I've looked at a few threads here and can't wait to start tuning!
I have an innovative automotive wideband O2 to install as well, so that should help me with street tuning. Then I'll move on to the dyno.*UPDATED*
Pictures as requested:
The Calum RT "open" ECU looks very much like any other OBD II ECU, with the exception of three wires coming out the back of the unit. A USB cable, and two wires (a blue one and a white one). The blue one is for switch one and the white one is for switch two.
As you can see, Calum supplies a nice set of quick disconnect connectors for the Solenoid switch wires.
I simply routed the wires under the dash, through the access port to the drivers side fender and then through the inner fender to the engine bay (near the battery).
For +12V, I used an inline fuse pictured below:
Calum also supplied a nifty set of heat shrink/soldering coupler connectors, pictured here:
And the prep work would look just like this:
When they're installed correctly with a heat gun (or a butane soldering iron/torch, that isn't out of butane), the couplers would look like this:
This is how mine ended up looking, until I get a heat gun (or butane for my soldering torch):
When I put the cover back over the center console, you can't even tell anything is different:
And for me, getting access to the USB cable is as easy as removing the ashtray (my coin holder) and pulling the cable out for use:
Note: Make sure to zip tie the USB cable to a bracket (like the one the center console side cover screws into), to keep it from getting unplugged from the ECU it's self).
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Originally Posted by SUNNYboi 
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