Thread: Blew up my fully modded VE engine

Hey Guys,

A little over a year ago my VE engine blew up, but I haven't had time or probably wanted to use time to take it apart until now.
Anyway, it is as bad as it could be.
The exhaust cam is broken in two (haven't seen that before... ever), valves on cylinder 3 is a little damaged, piston 3, rod 3 and cylinder 3 is completely unusable.
I have a couple of theories, but could use some input from you guys.
Here is what I have observed:
1: the piston has round edges all the way around also on the sides where the rod is mounted.
2: Cylinder 3 (the damaged one) isn't as black/dirty as the other cylinders. But I don't think it has been flushed with fuel, because it doesn't look so hot when I look at the piston rings.
3: The rod is twisted a little in the top, but that is probably due to the fact that it happened at 8500rpm, so it have been going up and down into the cylinder wall a "couple of times" before the engine stopped.
4: The cam is broken in two!?!?!?
5: The piston has hit at least exhaust valve number 1 on cylinder 3 it is gapping a little.
6: it doesn't look like anything else has been damaged on the top. Besides of course the valve guides on cylinder 3

Under all circumstances, I'm pretty sure the problem has begun with the piston, just can't figure out if it is because one of the sides/wings has broken prior to the break down, so the piston have been unstable or if one of the sides where the rod has been mounted has been tore loose. It is at least very wired that it is curved as the horizon with the top point in the middle where the rod is mounted and with the low points in the sides where the rod isn’t, and then still has round edges all way round the piston.
Anyway it is a little difficult to explain, but have a look at the pictures, maybe that will make it easier :o)

I also need input on how to proceed.
I have tried for a looooong time to get a hold on a W11 engine to replace my damaged VE engine, but haven’t been able to get one from either Andreas, JGY, SOKO, etc etc. and now I need my car running again, so I have to find another solution unless one of you can help me get a W11 engine.

My set up right now:
VE engine, balanced crank, nismo bearings, eagle rods, ARIAS PG9 gold coated pistons, Ti retainers, dual springs, SR16VE cam(s)*LOL*, ported top intake/exhaust, ported intake plenum

1: Buy a stock VE engine. Put it in my car and turn the ignition key.
2: Buy a stock VE engine. Buy a new ARIAS PG9 gold coated piston, a new eagle rod, new bearings and what else I need. And rebuild my modded VE engine.
3: Buy a GTI-R engine (easy for me to get spare parts - EU), larger turbo, new injectors, FIC, Blow off valve, clutch, frontpipe, HKS gauges, turbo timer,
4: Someone provide me with a W11 engine :o) (need 2 x W11 engines and 2 x VE engines)

Hope you guys understand what I have written. It is in the middle of the night here in Denmark, so I have not been very focused on my writing, but by all means ask if there is something that is babble, then I will try to explain it in another way

Best regards
Carsten

Not much to say about this







The valve bottom right is gapping a little


Spare parts


Difference in sedimentation


Look how it is curved


This one is not curved


This is VERY light weight



Look at the edge

Different side turned 90 degrees


Do you think I can use it again!?


Rod a little twisted


Nothing a piece of sandpaper can't handle


Again

holy crap! Iv never seen that before!

1. buy a 20ve put it in the car and drive
2. how long was the car running before it blew up?
3. how were you driving it when it blew up?
4. how was it tuned before you blew up?
5. who assembled your motor?

Looks like the piston failed around the pin area. I cannot explain the flat marks on the side of the piston other than the piston ****ing in the bore and dragging on the side of the block. Then the chain reaction takes place, the rod pushes the piston up into the head, making contact with the open exhaust valve. The extreme contact punches a hole in the piston and sends a shock through the valve train snapping the cam.

The other possibility is the cam broke and hung the valve open.

How long was the cam installed before this happened?

Sorry.

I was thinking the cam broke, leaving the valve open. Piston comes up, hits valve, c o c k s piston and rod.

Forum censored

crap! good effort

bigbore the block

i imagine this is what would seriously happen mis-shifting while on stepping on it..in serious mode.

it past 10 k>?

Nope redlined at 8500rpm, no shift at all.....
we were playing around and launched with wheel spin, so for sure no shifting

/Carsten

Hmmmmm interesting.... I think you might be right on that one.....
But is the valve really that hard that it can bend the rod, or is that due to the fact that it has been beaten up against the cylinder wall!?

/Carsten