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Thread: 2.3L VE Motors Build For Cheap With Mazworx Headgasket

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Posts: 311-320 of 346
2011-04-19 19:11:08
#311
Originally Posted by Will
so throwing out vague price estimation:


VE block sleeved and machined for $1300
92mm 12 to 1 compression Pistons for $600
Mazwork VE headgasket $250
stock 8 CW crank $0
Kelford 184c cams $850
Supertech Springs and retainers $350
new bearings $200
4 into 1 header 22" long 1.75 stepped to 1.78 to 2.25 collector. $900??

so thats almost $4,500 right there, not too crazy, what other major pieces am I missing?


Eagle rods if you plan on running NO2 - $250-$300

OEM rod/main bearings - $100

1T2964 ACL Race Thrust Bearing, Nissan SR20 Qty.1 = $7.12

4B2960H ACL Race Rod Bearing Set, 17mm Wide, Nissan SR20DET Qty.1 = $62.71

5M2964H ACL Race Main Bearing Set, Nissan SR20DET Qty.1 = $67.73

PWR SR90 Mazworx SR20DET Headgasket, 90mm Bore Qty.1 = $260.00

DAR 300-035-DF Nissan SR20 Dry Sleeve, Double Flat Qty.2 $93.75 = 187.50

DAR 300-035-SF Nissan SR20 Dry Sleeve, Single Flat Qty.2 #93.75 = 187.50


^That's if you build it yourself in the bold. If you get the block done by them, it will be about $1,050. I have a spread sheet with everything almost down to the penny. That's why I bought another VE that I will be leaving stock and decided to build the 2.3L slow.
Last edited by MR-4Door-SR20DET on 2011-04-19 at 20-08-08.
2011-04-19 19:17:50
#312
Rods are a really good idea also. Manlys are lighter then stock. Balancing the crank. Decking the head, valve seals etc. etc. list goes on and on.

Stratton.
2011-04-19 19:28:40
#313
Building these motors is not cheap.
2011-04-19 19:35:44
#314
Im at $9,000+ and climbing.
2011-04-19 20:02:55
#315
I don't even want to add up what I have into mine, especially with the additions over the winter.
2011-04-19 20:22:58
#316
I'm planning on selling my Corolla, and that combined with my turbo stuff should net 4-5k, which is enough to get started...

So to start out, what would you guys recommend; rather than buying a VE and then removing it later to build, do the 2.3 build strait up, then add cams, springs, ect later?
2011-04-19 20:26:18
#317
For piece of mind, I'd run Supertech oversized valves as well.
2011-04-19 20:48:12
#318
Originally Posted by Will
I'm planning on selling my Corolla, and that combined with my turbo stuff should net 4-5k, which is enough to get started...

So to start out, what would you guys recommend; rather than buying a VE and then removing it later to build, do the 2.3 build strait up, then add cams, springs, ect later?


Depends on how and what your car situation is.

If you can afford to have the car down for a while then do it all at once.

If you are in no rush to do the build, slap a VE in and enjoy the car as a 2.0L so you can experience all the different bolt ons until the big bore.
2011-04-19 21:04:56
#319
Originally Posted by SR20GTi-R
Depends on how and what your car situation is.

If you can afford to have the car down for a while then do it all at once.

If you are in no rush to do the build, slap a VE in and enjoy the car as a 2.0L so you can experience all the different bolt ons until the big bore.


^Best advice. I found myself dumping almost half my check when I first started doing the 2.3L build. I had to slow down as my savings account is more important than building a motor that is hobby related.
2011-04-19 21:25:07
#320
Originally Posted by mirrortints
For piece of mind, I'd run Supertech oversized valves as well.


What would be the piece of mind in going with oversized valves?

Don't get me wrong, I would love to see the gains in doing os valves on a big bore build. But I don't feel they are needed or would produce big numbers over standard valves.

Now a 92x92 build, I think os valves would be a worth while mod for sure. I hope someone is stepping up to the plate and testing it.

I'll probably try them in my big bore build eventually after the motor has been running for a little while, but not right away.
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