Thread: SR20VE w/standalone

WOT would be as close to zero as possible on a NA setup, the blued out area is the part of the map being used by the engine.

I still need to know the units on the Y axis to make any sense of this map. Is it in kPa relative to atmospheric? And are those commas supposed to be decimal points?

Assuming this I'll let you know what can be done...

First off the second map you have is much better than the first and would be a lot better to use and should be much better for EGTs and plenty safe. That being said I would add 4 degrees of timing from 1,500 - 4,000 rpm across the entire map. You're still much too retarded there. Then I would take the cells from 4,500 - 8,000 rpm and -91.3 through -43.861 kPa and add 4 degrees there as well. Then I would take the cells from 4,500 - 8,000 rpm and -35.995 through 3.5774 kPa and add 3 degrees there.

Do that and you'll sort of be getting close to a good map. WOT will still need a bit of work but make the new map based on my recommendations and we'll go from there.

First, you can download the Haltech software for free http://haltech.com/downloads/HalwinX_1_26.zip if you want to take a look. It's easy to use and you can display the maps in 3D as well.

My E6X is set up for a 2.5 Bar map sensor, in other words, I can run from 1 bar below atmo and up o 1.5 bar boost. So -100 will be the same as 1 bar vacuum and 0 is atmo pressure. When the car idles it starts off in most left part of the scale and at WOT it will run close to 0, or atmospheric pressure.

Thanks for helping me out with the ignition table, I really appreciate it (is that spelled right??).

I'll mess with the software once my computer is back up and running (dead power supply). In the mean time you should apply my recommended changes and upload the new map to the ECU and give her a drive. Let me know how it does. You have checked ignition timing with a timing light o make sure it's correct, yes?

Yes, checked with a timing light. Should be set at 15* if I figured out the GSpec pulley right. The last marker is 20, left of that i 17 followed by 15, or am I far off.. I'll double check the timing tomorrow.

When checking the timing you have to be aware that it's going to be a completely different ball game now with Haltech. What I would do is put 15 degrees in all of the cells of the ignition map around idle. Anywhere the engine might go while idling, put 15 degrees there. Then make sure ignition-based idle control is disabled. Then and only then can you check the timing and set the distributor for 15 degrees BTDC.

Haltech has a lock-timing function

Well, at least you know what you're doing. =]

I really hope so I got the technical skills needed, but lack the experience.

Made some changes to the ignition map, please tell me what you guys think. Still more work needed?



And, new rims