Thread: VE combustion chamber volume

anomaly I think you are right since the 90mm CC is 48 if I recall. I still have nt cc'd mine but will probably next week.

Also my stock head flowd 240cfm as mentioned but I heard others going higher. Most probably I got lower numbers since the Superflow 1020 flowbench we used is known to read lower compared to the sf600, FYI.

So are you saying the stock head cc (inc gasket ) is 41cc and bored to 90mm the cc (inc gasket?) is 48 ?

Daxx,
Readings for intake on my stock SR16VE (corrected to 28" water),

.050" --- 39.6 CFM
.100" --- 83.0 CFM
.200" -- 155.8 CFM
.300" -- 199.1 CFM
.400" -- 253.7 CFM
.450" -- 261.9 CFM
.475" -- 266.4 CFM

These were done on a Superflow bench @ 10" Water and multiplied by 1.67 for comparison to 28".

Those numbers are w/o gasket. You can't cc the combustion chamber with the gasket but only account for it when computing for the compression ratio.

Also the 48cc with 90mm bore could vary from setup to setup depending on your valves, if it is dished differently or just flat. On my head the combustion chamber will not be 48cc since I only unshrouded the valves to the 90mm gasket bore line and I have flat faced valves.Mazworx unshrouded the actual combustion chamber to 90mm and has custm valves so hence 48cc for him.

All the info with not using a Superflow 1020 bench has higher readings, I wonder why the bench I use reads lower numbers. It really does not matter since I am really looking into the area under the curve.

Here is the link of my worked head that way when being searched these links will come up. CAPT. REV's headwork

Right-o I have purchased a JDM N15 SR16ve and 5speed to go into my JDM P10.

Will convert to a 2l straight away

so correct me if this is wrong or a better way, i have spent days going through info on several forums but confusion still rules LOL
Highport motor parts are a dime a doz here, low port still expensive for bits.

4cw crank from lowport p11 de motor
Blacktop S15 det rods

I will need a 20 sump, does it matter if its high or low port?

Got to bring down the compression to at least 12:1 preferably 11:1 so is the best option to machine down the 16ve pistons (1 mm right?) and notch the side to clear the squirters. Do i need to machine in deeper valve pockets?
Could i use highport de pistons? what would the compression be ?

I think the factory 1600 intake and injectors will be ok? i have a 90mm VH45 throttle body lying around doing nothing that i could adapt on but is it too big ?

Going to get some headders made and connect into the 2.5inch mandrel bent system i already have.

As far as ECU's i was thinking about using the DE computer with a mother board and seperate com controller but i have read the 16ve ecu is good to use? also the package is missing the air flow meter, is anything else the same or should i use a Z32 VG30 one with a motherboard ecu?

Chers for all your advice

Cy

No comment then ?

Your pretty much on top of it.

Any sr20 crank will do. 4cw has the advantage of being lighter for better responce. 8cw will be more street friendly giving less engine vibration. make sure you use the spacer from the VZR crank or the harmonic balancer will not clear the timing cover.

You don't need turbo rods unless your planning on turboing it. That said, they will work if thats what you have available. For NA just use some stock SR20 rods with a set of ARP bolts.

Pistons. The safest route is to use SR20VE pistons. They will give 10.3:1 compression which is nice and easy to tune for pump gas yet still offering reasonable power. You can use your SR16VE pistons but the compression ratio is too high for pump gas. Even with shaved pistons I feel it is too high compression. If you want higher than stock compression either get custom pistons made or plane the head 0.5 - 1.0mm (ala VZR n1). If you do go down the head planning route pay special atention to piston to valve clearances when re assembling and use a genuine N1 timing chain tensioner.

You don't need to change the oil pan or the sump. Unless you decide to fit the girdle from an SR20DE. In which case you will need to modify the SR16 lower pan to clear the girdle.

ECU wise you can stick with your P10 ECU and fit a daughterboard, but you will need an external controller to switch the cams. Some have used the VZR ecu without any daughter board and fitted 370cc injectors to compensate for the 2.0L displacement. You will need a VZR MAF for this to work. This setup seems to work ok but would be better if a daughterboard is fitted as well. A P11 MAF will be suficient if using a daugterboard.

Final option is a stand alone. They are more expensive and time consuming to fit but offer the advantage of being able to remove the MAF as well as having special funtions like launch cotrol, flat shifting ect.

Yep, what he said pretty much sums it up.

I've recently done pretty much exactly what he has suggested, and got a healthy 139.9kW at the wheels, with a nice easy driveable mid etc...
It's all down to the tuning abilty of whoever you decide to use. Given a no-budget build, I'd go standalone, though you'll get good results from a daughterboard, as many have.

The 1600pistons are great for those chasing the high O/Ps, and you have a greater selection of cams with this kind of compression; but for street, STD 2litre pistons would be fine.
A lot of people use the 1600cams, and for a drop in and go, they really do well. Check out the recent dyno results from NZ, on the Torque performance NZPCC day.
I have a set of STD 2litre pistons left over from my big-build that are sitting in my garage, along with a few other parts, that you may find usefull.

Which ever route you decide to go, good luck, done correctly these are a great motor for power, and delivery.

im a bit late to the party but here is a 12:1 90mm VE piston compared to a 16ve piston