730rwhp, 530rwtq SR20VE-T S14 Build!!!!!!!!
So I may not be building my own car as of right now as funds are just not an option for it, you better believe I havent gone anywhere and still continue to build SR's. This build for now a great friend of mine, Justin, kinda fell back into my hands after a horror story start by a local performance shop here in Central Texas. Justin dropped off his S14 to this shop before deploying for 9 months, the plan was a 600whp ve-t setup. Well funny thing was I had been doing work for the owner of the shop whenever they would get anything complicated in and since I heard about this build from the very get go, as I helped plan a lot of it out, I figured I would be the one to assemble this motor. Boy was I wrong, the owner didnt want to pay my labor rate to assemble and do this $25k plus build on this S14. Granted I didnt even know the owner yet. Well so assembly started just prior to Justin getting back. After an internal employee dispute and people leaving and horrible customer experiences, Justin no longer wanted the shop to do the build. Well they already assembled the motor. So through the shops part guy, also friend of mine, we get the car into my hands and I sit down with Justin and go over the build. We get the motor to my house and I right away inspect it, first things first, the cams were not even in time. Intake cam was one tooth advanced and granted every part on this car is brand spankin new, chains, guides, cams, everything.
So we decided it would be best to start from scratch as there was no telling what had gone on. So I go to take the head off and once off I see there was no head dowels put in place and the head was not machined for them either. Kid who assembled it threw them out because they didnt fit. Secondly, I look at the pistons and see 3 of the 4 pistons are installed backwards, intake valve reliefs on the exhaust side on 3 of the 4 pistons as well as the rods mounted wrong, tangs not even on the correct side and so on. I also see big clumps of soot, dirt and debris sitting on the pistons and the walls are coated in dirt. Well that steamed from them not even having the tenacity to clean the head up. The ports literally had a crap ton of soot, dirt, cobwebs, and so on in the exhaust ports that in turn fell back down onto the pistons during assembly. So needless to say, I hot tanked the head, soaked the ports in egr cleaner and cleaned them with a fine bristle brush until they were spotless then hot tanks and cleaned again and blew out all ports and passages and did the same with the valve train. Here in the pics you can see what i was dealing with. Needless to say this motor wouldnt have survived the first hit of vvl and all the intake valves would have went bye bye with the cam off a tooth and so on. The rings were not gapped either and sitting at .003" or less on the top ring. Close enough that some serious damage would have resulted. So had to gap all rings as well. The original crank the shop tried to use was the original crank from the s15 motor which had some serious grooving on the mains caused by thrust bearing wear and serious wear on the thrust bearing contact surface. This would have caused issues down the road for sure. So we had to source a fresh crank and a forum member hooked us up. Through this whole thing they had charged him full labor for engine assembly and in the end after showing the shop just how bad they messed up, they only gave him back a very small portion of what they had charged. So all in all they screwed him but on the bright side it was into my hands which the owner wanted.
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So I continue on, disassembled the entire engine and started over, cleaning everything spotless, all oil ports were high pressure cleaned and so on. Here is what the build specs consisted of. All internals were mic'd, clearance checked and so on to ensure the shop didnt mix any rod caps or damage anything.
Engine:
SR20DET S15 Block Mazworx Sleeved and Stepped Deck and machined for 1/2" head studs, line honed with the Mazworx main studs and all freeze plugs, plugs, and so on were replaced.
Stock valve SR20VE P11 head with Brian Crower Springs and Titanium Retainers with N1 cams set at 0,0.
Manley Turbo Tuff I-Beam rods
CP 9:1 86mm pistons with Upgraded wrist pins
ACL Race STD H series bearings 5 hole mains, std h series 17mm rod bearings.
All ring gaps set to CP specs for Turbo application
Stock DET crank
BNIB VE oil pump, pickup tube (modified for rwd application), 5mm pump collar, chains, guides, tensioner all factory nissan parts.
ATI super damper
Mazworx 1/2" head studs and standard main studs
PE Apexi 1.5mm 86mm headgasket (make sure to use a compatible headgasket thats for an s14/s15 block or youll spew oil out the front)
Canton Racing Aluminum high capacity baffled oil pan. 4.8 qt capacity
PRL Billet Intake Plenum kit with 90mm throttle body (use older b13 style tps) bolted to stock VE runners
Custom made equal length exhaust manifold with Tial 44mm gate, had to relocate the wg flange as it was hitting the shock tower but easy fix
BW S362 Billet wheel with T3 .82 Turbine housing. Very similar to a 6266 Precision turbo.
P11 Valve cover with welded on bungs for crankcase ventilation
Mazworx VVL Solenoid Relocation Kit
-3 Turbo Oil feed line
-10 drain line
Coolant port on block and coolant outlet blocked.
Trans:
06 Z33 Trans with external slave CD0009 I believe is the code on it.
Bellhousing shaved down 5/8" here locally to accomidate the adapter plate.
Autotech Motoring SR to VQ trans adapter kit
We custom fabbed the shifter bracket to move it 8" closer to the shift linkage, shortened the linkage as well done by Arsenal Garage
Competition Clutch 6 speed Twin Disk Clutch Setup (must use the 1/2" extension plate for clutch to be all the way into bellhousing)
Custom Driveshaft that we had to get shortened 1" to fit due to the S15 differential.
S15 Differential and stock axles
Fuel System:
Twin Walbro 340 in-tank pumps, custom mounted by myself (have to stagger one pump slightly higher than the other to fit down into s14 fuel tank)
Aeromotive inline fuel filter
-8 Braided e85 compatible hose for the feed, -6 for the return
Aeromotive AFPR
AEM Flex Fuel sensor inline with return to tank
Radium Fuel Rail (required custom brackets to mount to ve runners, ports lined up perfectly)
FID 2150cc injectors (all tophats removed to clear PRL Plenum)
Pumps are actuated in Stage, one pump stays running all the time, 2nd pump kicks on at 7psi of boost. This was done due to fuel pressure drops from the regulator having to be turned down too much to maintain 45psi base pressure. With one pump on we could tighten the spring of the regulator to maintain that fuel pressure when fuel demand went higher.
Electronics:
AEM Infinity 8H Standalone
Harness redone by me to add all sensors, adapt the new coils and so on
AEM Wideband UEGO
AEM Wideband Sensor directly wired in to Infinity for full a/f control. The unit has its own full onboard wideband controller
AEM Flex Fuel Sensor and fittings
AEM 150psi fuel and oil pressure sensors
AEM 5 Bar Map sensor
AEM IAT Sensor
AEM Boost Control Solenoid
AEM 50psi Boost gauge
Audi R8/2.0T Red series coils (very high output and require 5v trigger, make sure your ems is capable to fire them)
20v/vet CAS
Misc:
3" intercooler piping custom cut and welded by me and Aresenal Garage here locally
Ebay 32X12X4 intercooler
3" SS Downpipe with 2 Wideband Bungs Custom made by Aresenal Garage
90* elbow welded onto compressor housing by Aresenal Garage
Bungs welded onto valve cover via Arsenal Garage
Koyo Radiator and Samco hoses, dual spal fans triggered by Infinity
Minor details in the build:
Opted to not have ATI Damper shaved down to align belts properly, instead shimmed the water pump pulley out and modified alternator mount slightly. The alternator was slightly out of line but hasnt proved to be an issue. Like I mentioned before, if you do this build using an s14/s15 block be sure to use an s14/s15 compatible gasket that has the sealing around the oil feed port for the VCT at the passenger side front corner of the block. A VET gasket will not seal this and will spew oil everywhere when started. Forgot this was an S15 block originally and yeah, had to change the gasket out or you can block the port which would require machining and yeah we werent pulling the motor back out for that. The transmission mount with this swap lined up on the back two bolts and the mounts are solid mounts. Everything held up great thus far. Trans tunnel had to be clearanced, aka hammered to clear trans in two spots, bellhousing area and side near left side of trans mount area that sticks into tunnel. Here is the pics.
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So we decided it would be best to start from scratch as there was no telling what had gone on. So I go to take the head off and once off I see there was no head dowels put in place and the head was not machined for them either. Kid who assembled it threw them out because they didnt fit. Secondly, I look at the pistons and see 3 of the 4 pistons are installed backwards, intake valve reliefs on the exhaust side on 3 of the 4 pistons as well as the rods mounted wrong, tangs not even on the correct side and so on. I also see big clumps of soot, dirt and debris sitting on the pistons and the walls are coated in dirt. Well that steamed from them not even having the tenacity to clean the head up. The ports literally had a crap ton of soot, dirt, cobwebs, and so on in the exhaust ports that in turn fell back down onto the pistons during assembly. So needless to say, I hot tanked the head, soaked the ports in egr cleaner and cleaned them with a fine bristle brush until they were spotless then hot tanks and cleaned again and blew out all ports and passages and did the same with the valve train. Here in the pics you can see what i was dealing with. Needless to say this motor wouldnt have survived the first hit of vvl and all the intake valves would have went bye bye with the cam off a tooth and so on. The rings were not gapped either and sitting at .003" or less on the top ring. Close enough that some serious damage would have resulted. So had to gap all rings as well. The original crank the shop tried to use was the original crank from the s15 motor which had some serious grooving on the mains caused by thrust bearing wear and serious wear on the thrust bearing contact surface. This would have caused issues down the road for sure. So we had to source a fresh crank and a forum member hooked us up. Through this whole thing they had charged him full labor for engine assembly and in the end after showing the shop just how bad they messed up, they only gave him back a very small portion of what they had charged. So all in all they screwed him but on the bright side it was into my hands which the owner wanted.
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So I continue on, disassembled the entire engine and started over, cleaning everything spotless, all oil ports were high pressure cleaned and so on. Here is what the build specs consisted of. All internals were mic'd, clearance checked and so on to ensure the shop didnt mix any rod caps or damage anything.
Engine:
SR20DET S15 Block Mazworx Sleeved and Stepped Deck and machined for 1/2" head studs, line honed with the Mazworx main studs and all freeze plugs, plugs, and so on were replaced.
Stock valve SR20VE P11 head with Brian Crower Springs and Titanium Retainers with N1 cams set at 0,0.
Manley Turbo Tuff I-Beam rods
CP 9:1 86mm pistons with Upgraded wrist pins
ACL Race STD H series bearings 5 hole mains, std h series 17mm rod bearings.
All ring gaps set to CP specs for Turbo application
Stock DET crank
BNIB VE oil pump, pickup tube (modified for rwd application), 5mm pump collar, chains, guides, tensioner all factory nissan parts.
ATI super damper
Mazworx 1/2" head studs and standard main studs
PE Apexi 1.5mm 86mm headgasket (make sure to use a compatible headgasket thats for an s14/s15 block or youll spew oil out the front)
Canton Racing Aluminum high capacity baffled oil pan. 4.8 qt capacity
PRL Billet Intake Plenum kit with 90mm throttle body (use older b13 style tps) bolted to stock VE runners
Custom made equal length exhaust manifold with Tial 44mm gate, had to relocate the wg flange as it was hitting the shock tower but easy fix
BW S362 Billet wheel with T3 .82 Turbine housing. Very similar to a 6266 Precision turbo.
P11 Valve cover with welded on bungs for crankcase ventilation
Mazworx VVL Solenoid Relocation Kit
-3 Turbo Oil feed line
-10 drain line
Coolant port on block and coolant outlet blocked.
Trans:
06 Z33 Trans with external slave CD0009 I believe is the code on it.
Bellhousing shaved down 5/8" here locally to accomidate the adapter plate.
Autotech Motoring SR to VQ trans adapter kit
We custom fabbed the shifter bracket to move it 8" closer to the shift linkage, shortened the linkage as well done by Arsenal Garage
Competition Clutch 6 speed Twin Disk Clutch Setup (must use the 1/2" extension plate for clutch to be all the way into bellhousing)
Custom Driveshaft that we had to get shortened 1" to fit due to the S15 differential.
S15 Differential and stock axles
Fuel System:
Twin Walbro 340 in-tank pumps, custom mounted by myself (have to stagger one pump slightly higher than the other to fit down into s14 fuel tank)
Aeromotive inline fuel filter
-8 Braided e85 compatible hose for the feed, -6 for the return
Aeromotive AFPR
AEM Flex Fuel sensor inline with return to tank
Radium Fuel Rail (required custom brackets to mount to ve runners, ports lined up perfectly)
FID 2150cc injectors (all tophats removed to clear PRL Plenum)
Pumps are actuated in Stage, one pump stays running all the time, 2nd pump kicks on at 7psi of boost. This was done due to fuel pressure drops from the regulator having to be turned down too much to maintain 45psi base pressure. With one pump on we could tighten the spring of the regulator to maintain that fuel pressure when fuel demand went higher.
Electronics:
AEM Infinity 8H Standalone
Harness redone by me to add all sensors, adapt the new coils and so on
AEM Wideband UEGO
AEM Wideband Sensor directly wired in to Infinity for full a/f control. The unit has its own full onboard wideband controller
AEM Flex Fuel Sensor and fittings
AEM 150psi fuel and oil pressure sensors
AEM 5 Bar Map sensor
AEM IAT Sensor
AEM Boost Control Solenoid
AEM 50psi Boost gauge
Audi R8/2.0T Red series coils (very high output and require 5v trigger, make sure your ems is capable to fire them)
20v/vet CAS
Misc:
3" intercooler piping custom cut and welded by me and Aresenal Garage here locally
Ebay 32X12X4 intercooler
3" SS Downpipe with 2 Wideband Bungs Custom made by Aresenal Garage
90* elbow welded onto compressor housing by Aresenal Garage
Bungs welded onto valve cover via Arsenal Garage
Koyo Radiator and Samco hoses, dual spal fans triggered by Infinity
Minor details in the build:
Opted to not have ATI Damper shaved down to align belts properly, instead shimmed the water pump pulley out and modified alternator mount slightly. The alternator was slightly out of line but hasnt proved to be an issue. Like I mentioned before, if you do this build using an s14/s15 block be sure to use an s14/s15 compatible gasket that has the sealing around the oil feed port for the VCT at the passenger side front corner of the block. A VET gasket will not seal this and will spew oil everywhere when started. Forgot this was an S15 block originally and yeah, had to change the gasket out or you can block the port which would require machining and yeah we werent pulling the motor back out for that. The transmission mount with this swap lined up on the back two bolts and the mounts are solid mounts. Everything held up great thus far. Trans tunnel had to be clearanced, aka hammered to clear trans in two spots, bellhousing area and side near left side of trans mount area that sticks into tunnel. Here is the pics.
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Last edited by ashtonsser
on 2015-12-04
at 01-04-20.
Originally Posted by ashtonsser 
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