Thread: New Member with 98 SE-R w/sr20ve

So I've been looking for a se-r for a while now mainly because I have a 99 GXE with the 1.6 and it's a fun little car to drive once you get it up to speed, just takes a little while, so I found a kid on the old interweb who had one for sale and he kept going on how it was a sr20ve motor swap, didn't know anything about them but it was a 2.0L and a stick shift so i bought it, and I might have jumped into a can of worms. So after some research just to find out exactly how the engine swap was done I have a few questions and apologize in advance if they are noob questions. The setup that I am now the proud owner of, as far as I can tell uses a older version msd 8969 window switch to run the solenoids and the original sr20de ecu. My questions are what exactly do the solenoids do and other posts say that you should use 2 switches, one for each solenoid and what rpm should the solenoids be activated at? How do I check if the solenoids are engaging at all and does the window switch without relays have the amperage to engage the solenoids or do I need to install relays on each solenoid? The way the setup is now they have one wire from the solenoid attached to the + battery and the other wire goes to the switch, is this right? Also my tach is off a bit, like 2000 rpm off, it says I'm idling at 3500 rpm and doing 70mph in 5th gear says I'm at 5500rpm, could the tach be bad or is something hooked up wrong? And last If I buy a chipped B13 sr20de ecu from nismotronic and have it tuned for the VE motor can I do away with the msd switch all together?

Chipped B13 SR20DE ECU, NismoTronic - Nissan ECU Tuning

Thanks for any help and great forum!!!

@Psipher I moved your thread out of the newbie area and into the VVL section of the forum where you will get more pertinent replies.

You're fine switching both solenoids at the same time. With dyno time you may be able to smooth the transition out by switching them independently, but most people switch 'em both at the same RPM. Constant 12v, and switched ground, with no relay is fine as well.

Not sure what's up with your tach, but as far as the ECU goes, you need a B14 one, not a B13. That's assuming there's no step-down harness in the car. Check the color of the ECU connector. White is B14/OBDII, blue is B13/OBDI.



If it's got the original ECU, I hope you're running the DE (not VE) injectors and MAF.

C

OK so it is a b14 ecu, the connector is white, my question about the tach is if the Msd switch runs off the tach signal how do I check if the signal is getting messed with before the switch and will it cause the switch to malfunction? Also if it is a b14 ecu why do I need the switch at all, the ecu doesn't work the solenoids? Also what rpm should they be activated at.

How do I tell if they used the VE distributor or if they stuck with the DE

You should be able to hear the cams switch over while driving. An easy way to test would be to adjust the MSD down to 2,000 rpm or so, and manually rev the engine while under the hood. You can also check the solenoids with a test light or volt meter to verify they're being activated.

You need the external switch because no USDM B13/4 ever came with a VE, so there are no outputs to control it.

Let's see some pics of the engine bay, so we can get a feel for what you're working with.

C

The Msd switch has been on 1700 since I bought it, so what should it normally be on? I can hear a change in the exhaust change tone in the mid rpms so I think the solenoids are working. Need to figure out how to add pictures.

1,700 is ALL kinds of wrong! Unless maybe the # of cylinder settings is wrong, and it's switching at 3,400??? Just thinking out loud here. Off the top of my head, you want to be somewhere in the 4500rpm range. Do a little searching to verify where it should be, but under 2k is 100% wrong.

Put the images in something like Photobucket, and post a link to the album. I'll show you how to embed them from there.

C

[img][URL=http://s49.photobucket.com/user/cdein1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_1115_zpsmtpizfcl.jpg.html][IMG]http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f264/cdein1/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_1115_zpsmtpizfcl.jpg[/img][/URL][/IMG]

Ok first the inside, white wire connected to the blue w/red stripe wire on ecu, yellow goes to solenoids, red + battery, and grey wire goes to nothing, and black wire I haven't traced yet but I'm guessing ground.

[img][URL=http://s49.photobucket.com/user/cdein1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/b8620acf-5c57-4154-a8d9-b7d852e73445_zpsuswskngp.jpg.html][IMG]http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f264/cdein1/Mobile%20Uploads/b8620acf-5c57-4154-a8d9-b7d852e73445_zpsuswskngp.jpg[/img][/URL][/IMG]

[img][URL=http://s49.photobucket.com/user/cdein1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_1111_zpstfvdb90t.jpg.html][IMG]http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f264/cdein1/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_1111_zpstfvdb90t.jpg[/img][/URL][/IMG]

So to block off the EGR tube they just flattened it, going to have to find better exhaust for it, I think it still has the DE stock exhaust, and if you look close the distributor has Mitsubishi on it?

[img][URL=http://s49.photobucket.com/user/cdein1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_1114_zpsxebgzhu9.jpg.html][IMG]http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f264/cdein1/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_1114_zpsxebgzhu9.jpg[/img][/URL][/IMG]

So I think the dark green thing covered with oil is the resistor for the DE.

[img][URL=http://s49.photobucket.com/user/cdein1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/8b6d6aba-ee5e-44ee-b0a3-d1f6e9090744_zpsfszjmoax.jpg.html][IMG]http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f264/cdein1/Mobile%20Uploads/8b6d6aba-ee5e-44ee-b0a3-d1f6e9090744_zpsfszjmoax.jpg[/img][/URL][/IMG]

that looks like a ve distributer