Thread: Finally decided that I am going 20VE. Dynoed good curve but not so impressive hp.

Hi Guys,

After giving it much thought, I decided I am going 20VE. Below is the build list (parts have been purchased).

COMPLETE SR20VE Engine (done 34000Kms)
N1 CAMS
SR16VE (SERIE SRV) LSD Gearbox + Flywheel
ACT 240ft/lbs Clutch Kit.

Head will be removed, and prepped (with stock valves and spring) :-

PORTnPOLISH with port match and bench flowed.
Multi angle Valve Job.
Very,very,very Mild Skimming (diamond tip)
Supertech Valve Guides and Seals (i dont think I need this since the engine is 34000kms)
SR20VET Metal HeadGasket
SR20VE IM thermal gasket.
SR20VE Metal Exhaust Gasket.

Will be using a DE dizzy (still decided if i should rewire and use a VE dizzy)
VE MAF
VE/DE rr Tbody (which ever is bigger)


To be added soon :

GTiR ECU 54C00 + Nismotronic.
370cc or S15 injectors
Locally purchased cam gears.


Only problem is designing a header. Anyone got any advise since i am pnp-ing?

Through research i got a rough idea that a 4-1 is the way, equal 22/23" long primarys 7/4" and stepped halfwayish to 15/8". Locally made 4-1 collector chocked to 2.3" and exit 2.5". The header will be made locally as well.

The is a bloke who most like will be selling off his complete N1 with TB IM. Costs a bit of money, dont now if it will be worth the investment. Research does not show significant gains with the N1 IM. (correct me if im wrong)

Goal is 200++whp onwards. Hoping to break the 160ft/lbs barrier.

Thanks Guys

Sarb

buy and notch some sr16ve pistons if your gunna use the metal head gasket.
n1 manifold needs porting or there will be zero gains. check out a gato one if you want to spend the money your gunna spend on your headers.
rewire the ve dizzy.
get some bc springs and retainers for your head.
kinda done all this in my thread. just spend the money,do it right, or do it again,and again.

The reason I am prepping the head is to not touch the lower end. I was thinking one or the other, and the headwork was most preferred by my mechanic. If the VET MetalGasket is thicker than VE, i will get a VE one, until I start mucking about with the lower end. Besides, if I go 16ve Pistons, I will have to hone the bores and if I am going to do all this, I might as well, go 88mm 12.5:1 JE's.

Yeah, I am thinking the next lump of cash would be on the IM and Pistons.

I've seen a few guys on here, who have got good gains on the stock bottom end. That is why I want to stick to that for now. Besides, I can run both RON 95/97.

BC Springs and Retainers can be had later. I am not planning to go more than 8,500rpm. So i think the stock S&R shoulde be safe.

Yeah, I am watching your thread closely, nice build though and I love the header!

Does anyone have conclusive numbers for gasket thickness? OEM and Metal, Compressed and non compressed?

that metal headgasket will lose you 1/2 a point of compression. you dont need that with stock piston compression. maybe stick with the paper oem one, or maybe a aftermarket metal one thats paper oem thickness (1.1mm from memory). oem metal one is 1.6mm.

really if your doing valve stem seals n stuff, you be nuts not to at least put the springs in. BC1030 or supertech SPR-2035-2022.

Do the springs and retainers now, they are cheap and are much easier to put in with the head off, no reason not to.

Q45 TB and a nice plenum will really wake up the motor. If anything go with the excessive plenum and port the factory lower runners or use the N1 runners. If you use the factory lower runners go with a slightly longer header. I love how my motor feels and has lots of torque with a super long header smaller primaries and the short intake runners.

Sorry for the silence and waste of thread count. Mum just expired, I wasnt feeling up to par for a while. Now I am not either, but I am back at work (away from family and alone) so instead of allowing my mind to go astray I thought I shall update.

Some ideas above have been scrapped due to family expenses shooting through the roof. Thankfully I have the last sibling to educate.

Here is the edited list.

N1 Cams
N1 Pistons (all notched and balanced)
1.5mm (approx) gasket (stock carbon gasket sandwiched with two 0.25mm metal gaskets)
3 angle valve cut with a bit of work on the chamber and throat.
Works Engineering Adjustable pulleys (local well known brand)
S90/Works 70mm throttle body for nissan.
Thermal intake gasket.
ACT 240FT/LBS clutch
SR16LSD G/box + flywheel
Nismotronic SA + GTiR Ecu (i cant find any other ECU here which supports the SA daughter board, if anyone has a b13 ser/g20 ecu which can supports the SA pls PM me)

Now the one of the problems is the header. We have not decided if a 4-1 or 4-2-1. The scientist building the car is a MIVEC guru. This is is first serious Nissan bulid and he is setting up my engine with his knowledge and the info I feed him from here. So far, he has been impressed esp with the Crank & Well designed head & N1 Pistons & N1 Cams.

Note : His car is a 1.88cc MIVEC (stock mitsu lower end) which is for track use and coughing out 232whp/170ftlbs on a 4-2-1 header (4x1.6 & 2x2.0 & 2.5 back) . Hence this thread will be of good use to him since we are having header decision issues.

Hope you guys could guide us.

pictures follow.

Initially we thought it was a 34k km engine, but we figured out it was 134k km. Ill deal with the seller later.














Engine bay, now u see it,


Now you dont,


The 200k kms rr engine which left a b16a behind.


and bingo!






The Head and its jobs.


Pistons In,




The Scientist with a thumbs up (sorry wrong finger!)


The right hand man strictly working on my rebuild.


That is all for now. Sorry guys.

Me doing the wiring at home. Continuity/resistance check and insulation/megger check every wire of my DE harness and prepped with stabilant22.



power for VVL soleniod will be tapped from the cigarette lighter. I prefer inside the cabin and fuse amp incrase to 10amps (if needed). Original VVL soleniod wiring looks like a 22/24gage, so i transposed it from the VE harness to my DE harness on a separate loom tied to the main loom. Will finish up the dizzy wiring. cut-solder-heatshrink.

i am just trying to figure out why some wiring diagrams have 4 pins to ECU from the dizzy for CAS, pins 22,30,31&40. where many pinouts ive seen have only pins 22,30,31. Feedback perhaps?

GTIR


UK/AU N15 ECU (one diagram two legends for AU/EU)


VVL


US


I will also fit a small female to female usb on the ac/radio trim so that i can stow the SA wiring safely or maybe get an ecu talk cable.

why not just use the nissan oem metal head gasket

Thats what i am puzzled about @sss4me. The gasket which i purchased stated VET by the seller and when we used a caliper, it showed 1mm thickness, i was kinda puzzled. its a 3 layer metal gasket, 0.25 + 0.5 + 0.25.

And now someone has told my mechanic that the valves will hit the N1 pistons at high revs. valve reliefs need to be deepen. I am not too sure whats happening here. I am not planning to go above 8200 until we understand the engine more once its fired up and dynoed. You are running N1 pistons rite? What are your applications like?

i have the vet metal head gasket (1.6mm), but have seen lot of builds with normal sr16ve pistons and n1 cams with no contact. you got a picture or part number for your headgasket? you seen confused about its thickness. is it 1mm or 1.5mm?