Thread: VE oil pressure and temperatures

I don't take my head for it but I think so. My mechanic performed the operation.
By the mechanic who had originally performed the swap I was still getting frequently fan starts in city.
Both say since you have a reservoir tank there's nothing to bleed, it bleeds itself out.
My old coolant came out fresh as new. I also have brand new pump.
What worries me is that we used tap water for Hepu, that was suppose to use and we only place 4,5lt of Hepu and 1lt of water.
SR16VE takes 7,7lt coolant (16mm radiator core) SR16VE.N1 takes 7,8lt (22mm core).

I left town towards the highway with 85C/185F and AC on.
Driving for quite some time 5m/16ft behind a car 4th gear and 120-140km/h(74-86mph) looked at the instruments and I had 105C/221F water and 110C/230F oil.
Made my way through, no cars in front and after some minutes temps dropped to 90C/194F.

I checked engine bay and coolant capacity when I stopped. I also noticed the air relief plug on thermostat side. It was dusty...
I will rebleed the system myself and check what happens.

I just put in a full aluminum radiator that is 1" thick to replace the nx2k one that was leaking. I have 2 12" slim fans that are rated for 1200cfm hooked up. Cruising it never gets above 205F but when the car is sitting it will start to overheat. I am running straight water right now and I have noticed that coolant works better to keep things cool. But I don't know what else I can do. If I am not moving the temps will get up there.

I wonder if a hood vent will help because my underhood temps are insane, even with full heat wrap on the turbo and dp. I have tried to keep things cool as much as possible on the SEL but it looks like there is nothing I can do. I will be buying a nismo 140* thermostat and trying that with a Gspec wp pulley. The whole system is bled completely.

Too bad I can't fit a koyo in there or I would have bought one already.

Out of site: There is a bleed screw right under where your coolant pipe reconnects to the head. (looking at the engine with the hood up it's on the right side) when the car is completely cool take the radiator cap off and open that bleed screw. and pour in coolant/water until stuff starts flowing out of that bleed screw.

Also make sure your heater inside the car is turned to full hot when you turn the car on, this makes sure coolant is circulating through the cabin and you get any bubbles out of there.


Coheed, What radiator did you go with? Mine, that you see above is from howe racing and I drive an sel (non-turbo) but it's a massive one that fits as long as im not running AC

Thanks man!
I had already seen some advices on other threads and made cross check on fsms for correct procedure.
I'm afraid I don't own the proper tool to open the air bleed plug. A normal spanner cannot get through and I don't want to damage the plug.
I performed same steps by unbolting radiator cap, waiting for engine to become hot bobbles to appear and coolant to overflow. I did it two times and then poured some more water on the reservoir. I will check back tomorrow.

I read good criticism on Repsol coolant. It has a high boiling point and great time response in getting the temp back to normal.

Coheed the larger WP pulley won't help you on iddle and low speeds. On the contrary things will get worse. Larger pulley spins the pump down to help it pour water on high revs where it is suppose to suffer. SR16VE pumps suppose to work better on high revs but not so efficient on low.

Please keep in mind that placing a low temp thermo requires you to change the cold start off setting on the ecu. It's 75C/167F on 16VE ecus that run 82C thermos and 65C/149F on 20VE ecus that run 76,5C thermos. I suppose same thing on DE ecus...
I was running cold start for several months till my tuner accidently found the addresses. Differernence in performance is big but differnce in fuel milleage and the impact to your pocket will be even bigger...
60lt/15.85gl tank and I was getting no more than 400km/248miles. I got 500km/310miles soon we change it in city driving and 600/372miles on a recent journey.

I found the problem. blown fan fuse. Fixed that and now I don't have any problems... Even with AC on. I will give is some time on some hot days and see what happens.

That's great Coheed!

We did open the air bleed plug and water immediately pured out. It was hot though at 80C/176F. I did twice that day on same temperature. Second time I let pure more and filled with fresh deionized water. Had some drives including highway, same results as before.

I put switch to on position, heater to the hottest position then wait for at least 10 seconds and turned switch off. Opened radiator cap and unbolted air bleed plug. I let all the water to drain, pured fresh water to radiator till it was filled and then I fastened the air bleed plug while water was still puring out. I did this in the morning with the car completely cold. Started up and waited water to overflow radiator neck so that I close the cap. Used almost 4lt/135oz of new water in total while I pured out about 1lt/33oz of mixture.
Drove away using AC and made monitoring in the evening with 29C/84F outside temperature.
It stayed for a long time to 90C/194F raised to 95C and finally to 100C/212F... It raised way slower than before but it did. It would drop on 95/203F on continuous driving. It was a usual city drive with no traffic and minimum idles.

I need new fans for the P11 turbo diesel radiator. Standard P11 SR20 fans don't fit. They are temporarily fastened. I could spend on slims or get lucky and find used one's. I got lucky and I will also try a stock radiator probably better structure quality from the aftermarket. I saw that valeo spec's it as 32mm/1.259" core size. It will be an opportunity to try the repslol coolant.

bleed via the screw when the car is cold from sitting overnight

right now when the car is warm the system is pressurized so water should come out...if it didn't you would have a bigger problem than mildly high temperatures

High city water temps got me into thinking.

As many N1 vins I tried all them displayed stock water pulley as the default. The one we all use.


The other one was already ordered...
I was hoping to prove me wrong or show something else but...



It's 12,1cm same size as Gspec one.

I used many times the air bleed plug to bleed the system. I pured out most of the concentrated Hepu mixture. Used almost 8lt/270oz in total of fresh deionized water. Distilled water is hard to find. I used a local pharmacy to order it for my new radiator.

I'm running a lot cooler now. Now highway yet. I get 90C/194F in city sometimes 95C/203F but it drops if you don't stop. If you do stop, 100C/212F is something that easily gets you. Probably cause of the larger pulley.

yeah sounds like you are within the norm, just keep an eye on it

yes that pully will run hotter at idle so that's to be expect.


thanks for documenting everything