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Thread: My SR20VE/32v Build...Pictures and Part Numbers

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Posts: 91-99 of 99
2017-12-06 07:15:28
The last piece of the puzzle was a n1 exhaust cam, with much thanks to Mark Merliss for his great service

So it was back to the engine builders to put the new bits in, shim the head and properly degree the cams. The n1 cam fell straight into the factory centreline (110) at zero, whilst the 184c intake cam was -6 on the cam gears @ 104 centreline.

Whilst there i got a lovely new (bigger) battery box made up to suit the factory fuse setup , and a new intake housing made for the rocker cover and iacv hose.

2017-12-06 07:35:30
A three week run in, oil change, and it was back to the tuners. This time there is a happy ending. Shortly into the tune, trent (tuner) says to me " we have to make a new redline, its still making more power up there". So i choose a 9k ceiling, 9100cut. The intake cam ended up @ 100 centreline (+4) just like Kelford recommended it would. The cam change ended up working best at 6800 rpm. It makes pretty good torque too 8200rpm, and 140+ kw from 7200 -9100, peaking at around the 149 mark. Heres some videos of the runs.




2017-12-06 07:42:01
That's quite the update! I will watch the videos in a bit.
2017-12-06 07:52:24
Last edited by sss4me on 2017-12-06 at 08-45-05.
2017-12-08 05:45:33
Way to continue the "nicely done" theme.
2017-12-17 12:53:47
Props on the build, HOLY SHIT

But man put that dang battery in the trunk and work on the intake side on the dyno. I feel this is the issue!!!!

You should be closer to 164KW btw.. something is obviously wrong

You need to remove that dang air filter/cover box and get a longer and straighter 3.5" pipe in there with a 3.5" velocity stack on the end.

Try this on the dyno and you will see. Then you can get a proper air filter for the new velocity stack

Last edited by Haulin200sx on 2017-12-17 at 12-55-45.
2019-12-24 11:34:36
2019-12-29 03:28:59
Originally Posted by se-r tuned

new 88mm bottom end coming soon. tbc.
2020-02-16 15:39:14
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