Thread: Having a few small running issues, was hoping someone has had the same...

So I just finished my SR20VE swap (P11) into my P10. I have a JWT chipped OBDII ecu, running the SR20VE Air Idle Control Valve and the SR20DE Cold Air Idle Valve thing (forgot the name) because I'm running a DE throttle body, so I don't have the spring valve thing. TPS has been adjusted, timing adjusted, and everything runs pretty awesome actually. HOWEVER, it wants to idle high, and if I screw in the plunger on the idle control valve all the way down, I can get it to 900RPM. When I am driving for a bit, and let off the gas and come to a stop at a light, the engine comes down really low in rpm and kicks back up, then falls to stall and shuts off. Doesn't happen every time, but it happens enough to be a pain in the butt. Has anyone had this issue? And if so, how did they fix it? No check engine lights btw, all sensors are plugged in to the OBDII harness (EGR temp is just bolted to a bracket, lol).

How do you have the de cold idle bolted up? On a de engine low port it's bolted to the intake manifold right on a coolant passage. The coolant heats up the aluminum body of the cold idle device and the air vane inside closes once warmed up. I'll bet it's getting too much air through the cold idle device.

Ahh, I didn't even think of that, lol. Damn. Yeah, it's now bolted to the driver side intake manifold support bracket, so it would take a long time for it to warm up (if ever). So now I need to figure out how to get coolant to it to warm it up, or just leave it plugged in but remove the hoses (so I don't get a check engine light due to me running an OBDII ECU). Thanks for the input!

BTW, what part of AZ are you located? I'm actually moving there in a week, ha ha.

Actually the cold idle device isn't obd2 detectable. You could just remove it if you want to. That's what I did for my 96 p10 ve. But I chose to use the ve throttle body for cold idle adjustment. I'm in the Gilbert area. What part of az are moving to?

I'm running the DE throttle body so I can keep cruise control (used it this morning, ha ha), but I can probably get away with the cold air idle capability gone. I'll see about pulling it off this evening and seeing what happens. On my way to work a check engine light came on and the car started running like the TPS was unplugged or a large air leak, so now I have to figure that out out as well (could be related as well). Glad I'm doing some shakedown for a week before I make the trip down!

And I'm actually going to be in Gilbert as well, ha ha. Are there any G20/SR20 meets in the area?

Screwing the idle valve device all the way in is what has caused your issue. Your symptoms are a sure sign that this screw is not backed out enough.
The reason for your high idle is a different story. Possibly caused by the placement of the cold idle valve as you've already been made aware.

I have since backed the idle screw out to allow some air flow, but it sill dies while braking when it's warm. I will be messing with the emissions stuff over the next couple days. Hopefully I can iron this out! Ha ha.

There's a few guys around Mesa and chandler I've met, but haven't kept up with the meets as my car is embarrassing right now. Are you on g20.net?

I'm sure it's not that embarrassing, ha ha. I have a shiny engine, but that's about it. The rest of the car is pretty "meh". I just like going to meets for the BSing and what not. I am on G20.net, but since it's not very active, I don't post on there as much.

Sounds like you didn't set the "base idle properly"

You set it to 900rpm but it drops real low when coming to a stop (sign of too low of an idle)

Try getting it into timing mode and set the base idle properly