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Thread: EBay tri y header

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Posts: 111-120 of 136
2014-11-14 04:55:25
#111
That's a squirrel in these parts...
2014-11-14 16:43:02
#112
In my my opinion its a good budget header that will perform better than a SSAC type of header!!
Its not the best!!
The big tube piping sizes and collectors make more power!!
That's a fact!! We have tested both on multiple cars with same results!!
I will test one on a customers car soon but wont be able to have a back to back test!!
For $300 it wont get better than that!!
2014-12-12 07:27:31
#113
Bump for any updates
2014-12-12 17:22:20
#114
Originally Posted by THOR
Bump for any updates


nothing. seems im the only one who committed to buying one and decided to share. ordered an ati damper for ve so I will give new belt sizes when I get it installed.
2014-12-13 02:48:05
#115
Originally Posted by zeneffect
Originally Posted by THOR
Bump for any updates


nothing. seems im the only one who committed to buying one and decided to share. ordered an ati damper for ve so I will give new belt sizes when I get it installed.


I have one on the way soon.I need my car dyno tuned with the current ssac anyway ,and then I would like to swap on the tri-y the same day and do a back to back.At this point my biggest hurdle has been getting a time/date setup at the dyno with the tuner...and the holidays isnt gonna help make this go faster...LOL
So stay tuned,as I will update this thread when I post mine.
2014-12-13 03:13:30
#116
@eggman

pre-drill out the flange that goes to the cat, and swap on a belt that moves the alternator down. if the alternator is at the top of its adjustment range, you need a shorter belt, if its in the middle, I think you will be alright. will save some time for the back to back dynos.

once you are tuned up, id like to take a peek at your timing map if you don't mind sharing. just want to compare notes is all.
Last edited by zeneffect on 2014-12-13 at 03-15-08.
2014-12-13 03:47:35
#117
Originally Posted by zeneffect
@eggman

pre-drill out the flange that goes to the cat, and swap on a belt that moves the alternator down. if the alternator is at the top of its adjustment range, you need a shorter belt, if its in the middle, I think you will be alright. will save some time for the back to back dynos.

once you are tuned up, id like to take a peek at your timing map if you don't mind sharing. just want to compare notes is all.


Thanks I will do that for sure ahead of time and/or bring a few different sized belts.But the holes on the cat will have to wait until I get there theres a lift by the dyno,and I have dirt here to work on the car...LOL .I will more than likely just have a basic ecu so I dont know about the timing maps .I cant afford the SA at the moment as having 2/3 project cars is sucking me dry.
2014-12-13 04:41:50
#118
Originally Posted by eggman
Originally Posted by zeneffect
@eggman

pre-drill out the flange that goes to the cat, and swap on a belt that moves the alternator down. if the alternator is at the top of its adjustment range, you need a shorter belt, if its in the middle, I think you will be alright. will save some time for the back to back dynos.

once you are tuned up, id like to take a peek at your timing map if you don't mind sharing. just want to compare notes is all.


Thanks I will do that for sure ahead of time and/or bring a few different sized belts.But the holes on the cat will have to wait until I get there theres a lift by the dyno,and I have dirt here to work on the car...LOL .I will more than likely just have a basic ecu so I dont know about the timing maps .I cant afford the SA at the moment as having 2/3 project cars is sucking me dry.


no, you want to mod the holes on the header side to mate with the cat. just copy the gasket to the flange and drill out the holes till they are slots going towards the pipe. you don't need a lift or the car even to do it, just the secondary part of the header and gasket as a template. you can also swap the belt before hand, just throw on a belt that rotates the alternator down to at least 1/2 of the adjustment. the + terminal is what hits the header if its all the way up. you can always move it to the bottom of the adjustment and throw on the appropriate sized belt for that before you get to tuning. all of this can be done with the car on the ground of course, so it would save time and precious $$$ at your tuner if you do it before hand. if you do it there you are going to waste at least 30min of trial and error with the belt, and another 10-15min drilling out the flange. that's 45min of time you can be tuning and testing.


you can pull the timing maps (the whole bin actually) through a consult cable if you are on a basic. im guessing your tuner is either has a dual ostrich setup, or has nistune ready to tune your car? without the aid of realtime, there is a lot of time wasted pulling chips flashing and putting them back to retune.
Last edited by zeneffect on 2014-12-13 at 04-57-20.
2015-01-01 01:23:14
#119
Ati super damper needs a 6pk860 belt on the alternator side to not interfere with the header
2015-01-01 07:45:29
#120
On the rare occasion I'm happy to not be in the states. Over here we pay for a dyno tune. If it takes the tuner 30 mins or 2 hours to tune the cost is the same. Tuners who rush and do a $hitty job soon get found out and left behind. Although bringing a car to a tuner that isn't ready to be tuned (i,e. Needs plugs, bad fuel filter, some or other electric problem etc) is frowned upon and the tuner may send you home without a tune to go fix your $hit.

Back on topic, have one of these headers sitting at customs as we speak. Will pick it up soon as they open tomorrow or Monday latest. Going on my brother in laws car so I'll have a proper dyno chart for a built ve motor. In say a week. The before header is a de header similar to ssac that has supported 197whp un-corrected or 230whp corrected thus far.
Last edited by Doctor G on 2015-01-01 at 07-51-00.
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