Thread: After VE swap in B13: High Idle (2k), WTF?

So my buddy did the P11 VE swap in my old B13, and he used the VE ecu, maf, distributor, etc wired into the factory DE harness. Everything runs fantastic except that when warm, the idle sticks around 2k and it hesitates a tad during hard shifting. My theory is that the ECU is from an auto, so it's expecting a TQ converter to keep the RPM down. Anyone run across this? Anyone know of a fix?

Did he adjust the cold idle on the throttle body? or check to make sure it's not missing a screw out of the throttle body plate?

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Or tell him to throw on his DE throttle body from the old motor.

He messed with the cold idle on the TB as well as the AICV. I'll let him know about the missing screw idea, lol.

I know your using a VE ecu but switching to a TB without that coolant controlled cold idle should fix this. The factory IACV is all you need. You can also cut that portion of the extra idle part right off the bottom of a VE TB

Interesting, didn't think about that. Thanks!

I did mess with the throttle screw and the IACV screw to try and lower the idle...
It is still there.

ELI5 why swapping throttle bodies will fix my idle?

The problem is you have 2 devices to control cold idle. With both of them = high idle. You only need either the IACV or coolant controlled stepper mounted on the underside of a VE TB not both

I will give it a shot... what is the worse that can happen, new gasket and some wasted time haha.

I do still think its weird that the VE has both these systems but for some reason now it doesn't work properly?

The motor has All VE sensors and what not except the gauge water temp sensor. With a VE ecu one would think that the signals would be the same as the original P11 car.

Did you hook up the coolant lines to the coolant controlled idle? If not, delete the coolant control/hook them up. BAM, no more high idle! :
http://www.sr20-forum.com/ve/75641-how-delete-waxstat-cold-idle-mechanism-ve.html