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Thread: N1 Engine re-build advice

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Posts: 11-17 of 17
2014-10-02 06:33:25
#11
Just buy a sr20ve short block. Throw in your n1 pistons. Vet hg. And your n1 head and such
2014-10-02 10:26:37
#12
Easier said than done. Rare enough to find one over here id have to import. I have a spare sr16 short block there so I'll just build it up, providing the head isnt damaged il put it on then.

Anyone any suggestions on rod choice, I have sr20ve rods there but I might as well uprate them while im at it.
Last edited by N15 Niall on 2014-10-02 at 10-51-17.
2014-10-30 19:23:32
#13
Any suggestions in regards to manley or eagle rods? Also bc or supertech valve springs & retainers?
2014-10-31 17:02:08
#14
Originally Posted by N15
Any suggestions in regards to manley or eagle rods? Also bc or supertech valve springs & retainers?


There is no point unless your boosted and pushing big power, just stick with SR20VE or SR20DE Rods.

Don't forget to modify your pistons to clear the oil squirters because of the longer stroke
2014-10-31 17:19:27
#15
Originally Posted by N15
Any suggestions in regards to manley or eagle rods? Also bc or supertech valve springs & retainers?


Whatever rods are lightest, I believe Manley edge out the Eagle in terms of weight. Compared to the heaviest, GTi-R rods, there are just about two pounds worth of connecting rod weight that can be take off of the entire reciprocating assembly alone! A huge plus when you are revving over OEM RPM limit regardless of how the engine breathes, natural or forced. If you have some OEM ones laying around and want to save some dollars, re-use the OEM ones. If you have some breathing room on your wallet, go ahead and splurge.

For S&R, I have no problem with BC or Supertech. More people will say Supertech.
2014-11-01 02:44:48
#16
Originally Posted by pTen
Originally Posted by N15
Any suggestions in regards to manley or eagle rods? Also bc or supertech valve springs & retainers?


There is no point unless your boosted and pushing big power, just stick with SR20VE or SR20DE Rods.

Don't forget to modify your pistons to clear the oil squirters because of the longer stroke


If he is going to rev the piss out of the motor I would recommend forged rods for reliability. It's a cheap $250 and not having to worry of a rod bolt going ghost at 9200+ rpm.
2014-11-16 18:13:18
#17
Thanks for all the info guys, i will buy getting a set of aftermarket rods for the new build.
In the mean time ive torn down the motor to see exactly what went. Seeing as this is my first time doing anything like this any advice or info you guys could share will be greatly appreciated.




Plugs leads even shat themselves..




Seeing as this is my first engine teardown, i thought i'd be tidy about it....





Dirty dirty sump...



It was at this point i thought, maybe i should've removed that pulley earlier.... lol


Bits of bearing it seems...



1 & 2


2 & 3


3







4



Thats as far as i am with it really. Working 6 days a week at the min so time to get near the car is fairly limited.
Saving for a few key components for the new engine which should be great... so i'll update again with progress as i go/parts arrive.
Again any info or advice would be great as this is my first attempt at any kind of engine internals work so loads to learn and research.
Cheers
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