Thread: It's ALIVE! but FML once again, this is absolutely ridiculous what I found

B13 VE:

6/28 update (see latest post 2nd page if your interested)
IT STARTS AND RUNS !!!!!!!! It was a combination of a dying distributor, poor wiring connections in a few places, blown fuses, mixed up wire, etc

This guy who worked for GM or 24 years or something made it all happen. I had some other friends help along the way but he came over Friday for 2 hours and messed with it with me and 2 friends, it wouldn't start, so he said he'd be back tomorrow and he'd figure it out, basically guaranteed me. I was like "yeah I dunno, U can come if you want" (glad I did) so then came back today and in 1 hour it was back and running. This is about all I had to do (cutting the ear of the DE dizzy):





HOWEVER today I realized when I got under the car for the first time in quite awhile that....


THE TOW TRUCK COMPANY that towed it to my house when it first broke down in early May completely destroyed my lower oil pan, pass side sway bar, cross member, and crushed part of my header. I'm assuming but not positive it happened when the car was pulled up onto the lift or whatever and the angle was too steep and it just scraped and bent away the entire time Since the car hasn't moved since then and I had just changed the oil like 3 days before it broke down, I would have noticed something this bad. when we got it started earlier today I drove around the block and back into the garage. I cant believe this.

seriously. much more to come on this. calling insurance company Monday and will take it from there. see next page for pics of damage.

check fuses

mostly engine control fuse in engine bay by battery and inside the cabin. had this happen to me this weekend the og forum members figured it out at the track good looks gio

crank angle sensor is integrated into the dizzy isnt it? i dont think a cap and rotor will fix that, but perhaps try disassembling your dizzy, cleaning it up a bit then reassembling. could be oil fouling up the sensor.

Morgan you are a genius.

First I checked all the cabin fuses for the 10th time, all are good.

THEN I checked the fusible links and found the Engine control 25A looking like this (actual pic):
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!! thing is toasted

I don't have a replacement fuse yet so I don't know if this is the problem but it certainly isn't helping. What do you think? P.S. do they sell these at Autozone? I don't feel like special ordering from Nissan, will have to go to a junkyard I guess

You changed ECU and that fuse blew, what do you think will happen when you replace with a new fuse?

What else changed, that may be the problem. I was also wanting to ask you why did you take that ECU out?

The ECU has not been changed, yet.. Going with JWT's ECU VE program, already have one just waiting on them to send me the "chip.". I want to dyno the Calum ECU and the JWT ECU back to back. The JWT ECU will be tuned for the VE of course, N1 cams, 333cc injectors, N60 MAF, and no rev limit. JWT won't or will not or cannot (don't know which) set any SR20 rev limit past 7950RPM; my Calums rev limit is 8250~ish and I'm often hitting it on accidentally, and my motor made its most power at 8000RPM on the d-jet so I'm going to try to get the limiter set at 8600RPM instead.

Should be interesting to dyno them back to back. I have a feeling the JWT will make more power down low but the peak WHP will be around the same. I am most interested in low range torque gains. Will be leaving everything else the same, VVL activation at 5200RPM, same 93 octane fuel etc.

I'm still not getting spark with the new fuse in there. Its a 30A because no Auto parts stores had a 25A like that, not Advanced auto or Autozone.. so I got the 30A. Same type of fuse but didn't fit perfect so had to trim some plastic.

Besides not getting spark, is there a way to tell if the crankshaft position sensor needs to be replaced?

In the B13 it is inside the distributor correct? I'm going to pull the thing apart now since I have to put my new cap & rotor on anyway

OK, so I am currently getting 9 volts at the coil and 2 volts on the spark plug wires. Car still wont start. Friends came over and they figured out the fuel pump issue, it now primes when the accessories are turned on.

So the motor is getting SOME power, but little. What do you guys think would cause this? The distributor? Cranked it over and each spark plug wire read about 2 volts.

I also tried 2 different ECU's, both keep throwing code the Crankshaft position sensor, 1,1. Car sounds like its so close to starting but it wont turn over. Engine control fusible link is good, so is the one in the cabin. HELP! We were at it for 6 hours today and had to make 2 trips to autozone. Ignition coil is good, confirmed this by getting a brand new one from Autozone and testing the voltage and it was the same as the current one.

HELPPPP lol

So this just happened out of no where?

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check your main engine ground. I had this happen to me. drove to work then no start. I used to work with former nissan engineers. it was the main chassis ground causing it not to start.