Thread: 90mm bore 12.5 build in planning stages.. searched but all results are OLD lol

Well I rev my stock ve to 8k rpms on 14psi and have been for sometime now with no issues. Like stated before think about what you want out of the car hp wise and driving wise then build it to meet those goals. Seems like you are Set on 90mm NA build, just don't cry when a bolt on stock ve with 50 shot walks you down at 1/8 the cost. Your going to spend twice the $ on this thing then you need to. If you plan to enter it into an NA race class then rock on man.

Or maybe he does not care about how fast the car can travel in any given distance and maybe he doesn't wanna race anyone. Plenty of ways to have fun in these cars besides at the strip.

Yea same could be said for a blown vette or challenger .. if I was concerned about time slips a 20 year 4 cyl would not be my choice in weapon .. some of us just like to build cars and drive them doesnt have anything to do with competition. My goal is to put together the car I wanted 10 years ago when I couldn't afford it.. sure I could go buy a z06 or a srt8 sti or evo but that isnt what I want .. I want a pretty potent all motor b13 for the thrill of driving said b13 not to post mad tyte my penis is tiny time slips and dyno sheets

edit: furthermore as I said before cost is not a concern to me .. this is the car Ive wanted for years ... look at guys who restore their dream cars of yesteryear .. sure they may spend 30-40 grand restoring a car that will get smashed at the track by some kid with a big shot of nitrous on his econo box but they built what they wanted at a cost they were comfortable with and at the end of the day the happiness their "wasted" money brought them is worth more than the monetary loss they suffered to be "slow"

You guys are 100% correct build the car you want. I just see this all the time ppl dream of a setup get 1/2 way into the build and never end up finishing it. I always tell ppl to start small and ramp it up as you gain knowledge. I think a 90mm bore stock stroke vvl would be sweet. Keep us updated with pics and details, I'll be watching for sure.

I wont give up .. its just going to take a while to get it off the ground .. I picked up my virgin se-r months ago and due to work and everything else going on im basically just now getting started on it. Having issues with my work truck limited funds around the time I got the car but now since the motor has be rebuilt (17k $ later lol) I am starting to make money again plan for now is to either fix the de or drop a stock VE in while I build the big bore motor and work on the body .. this project will probably not be entirely complete 2 years from now but building it is atleast 40% of the fun for me seeing it go from a stock 91 ser to something right out of my imagination is its own reward. Hopefully in a few weeks ill have the pan dropped so I can see if the knocking DE is savable then after I get it running wether it be by repair or replace of the engine I will start with mods.. I will probably do a "build" thread which will mostly chronicle part buying and the general car not so much the motor build as I will mostly have other build it both due to limited time and limited tools lol

Hey there,

Since you're set on the bored out route you may as well go 92mm. I say that cause I have a set of 92mm 12.5:1 cp pistons for sale going for super cheap

One of the common misconceptions of sleeve install and failed sleeve installs are the sleeves "dropped". They dont actually drop. Understand that these sleeves go in tight and are only sealed by the sealant and some use orings. Alot of people will have one shop install the sleeves, then take it to a different machine shop to have them do the other machine work. The sleeves usually shift after install so some settling may occur if you wait too long. So when someone is finally ready to resurface the block, the sleeves may have "raised up". If they dont re-seat the sleeves back down before they deck the block, then the sleeves will be resurfaced on the same plane as the block, but remember the sleeves may have "raised" itself back up. Once you torque the head down, the sleeves "go back down" or "sunk" below the freshly decked surface, so the sleeves to some people have "sunk".

In short, just save yourself the hassle and trouble, and have one shop do it all or at least the sleeve install and resurfacing. And remember when you resurface your block to always do it with the front cover you are going to use.

I planned to have the same shop basically assemble the entire bottom end and I didnt literally mean dropping a sleeve I just meant didnt want it screwed up in anyway because of a half assed sleeve install but I do appreciate the extra information. . Any good info is always welcomed in my book lol

Dont forget to degree the motor after sleeve install, decking block and head will askew cam timing from tdc. Even if it is set to true '0' meaning tdc is lined up with whatever cams you choose makes a huge difference. Proper tuning is critical as well, as every motor has a different flow characteristics even amongst all 4 cylinders, if you are able to truly nail down fuel trims/ cyl thats where real power numbers are made. I built a harness from scratch for my aem setup utilizing deustch at/ nissan spx oem connectors where I could to drop resistance in wires and providing individual ground sources as close to the ecm / coils. I maximize out tq numbers vs hp numbers as tq represents the true volumetric efficiency of a motor and have put a hurting on several of my friends Kswap civics with 300+whp dyno sheets. My current motor is 88x88 using a non nissan motor based rod and piston, undercut/ modified 4cw crank and a b!tchload of machine work, +1 IN +2 EX inconel valves, 184c(critical cam timing) on FTW purple(cheating+expensive) I made the most power. I am using a continental ethanol sensor 6an feed/return, and recently added CXracing surgetank in trunk w MagnaFuel 750 ethanol pump, and walbro intank to feed the surgetank w my AEM v2 so i can utilize flex-fuel E85 or pump 92/93RON. My headers are based off SixSigmaRacing's street sweeper design w anti-reversion chambers and scavenger breather system, the rest is VRS 3" piping.

You sound very knowledgeable .. to the point where alot of that was basically german to my simple mind lol but again I welcome the information you provided even ic I dont YET understand all of it .. I am still researching and learning the mofe technical side of this so maybe one day ill reread what you post and understand all of it lol

on a side note all other things identical how much power does everyone think would differ between 86-88-90mm bores? The more I read the more I think maybe the 1800ish $ for the sleeved block to run 90mm bore may be better spent on a set of hayward ITBs or at the very least a custom intake manifold .. I mean if I decide that I infact do want the 90mm setup im not opposed to spending the money I just thought if the gains were minimal id rather not mess with it simply because the extra wait time .. both in terms of getting the block done and saving the cash to have it done .. im very excited to have a quick b13 as my last one was a simple ga16de untill I traded it to a friend and he blew the 1.6 and we swapped it to a DE lol but id definitely like to hear opinions on the bore vs hp thing.