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Thread: sr20ve in a suzuki swift

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Posts: 1-10 of 11
2014-05-20 20:13:13
sr20ve in a suzuki swift
Anyone ever thought of doin a ve swap in a swift? I heard a guy in south america was working on this swap so i figured since my g13b swift head gasket blew its time to get started. Ps a swift is lighter than a crx... thoughts? Ideas?...
2014-05-20 20:53:00
i think the thought of it would be sick, ive always like the older swift gti's or whatever, like this one.
Last edited by NSMO240 on 2014-05-20 at 20-54-18.
2014-05-20 21:08:30
I've seen these cars beat Pulsar GTI-Rs back home in Barbados with the little swift motor heavily modified, so I'm sure if you can get it to work it will be a monster.
2014-05-20 21:40:49
lol those swift motors from what i read can rap it out to close to 9k just with a tune.
2014-05-20 22:39:36
Their engine are great too, local hillclimb cars are very fast! Ive also seen engine bay with SR16VE in it... i think it was over here.
2014-05-21 00:12:23
Tiny cars are awesome.
2014-05-21 02:38:43
Re: sr20ve in a suzuki swift
Originally Posted by NSMO240
lol those swift motors from what i read can rap it out to close to 9k just with a tune.

Where did you read this?

I've got a swift gti, it's a pocket rocket but could always do with a bit more

Sent from my D5503 using Tapatalk
2014-05-21 03:03:19
i was doing some research and trying to find one about 2 years back, it was some swift forum i was browsing and it was actually a complaint but it would rev to about 8700 or something, and some guy posted a video. ill see what i can dig up

this isnt anything i was talking about but maybe this will give you a little insight.

1-2: With G16 standard pistons, the CR will be lower, around 8.5:1, but with standard D16, it will be higher, around 12:1 or more, so you should machine the top of the piston, or without premium fuel, standalone ECU and modified timing, you will kill the engine in no time.
Plus, the standard D16 pistons arent full float pin type such as the G13B or the G16B, so it need to be modified also. The weak point will be the conrods, so I recomend to replace them with forged ones, a set will be around 500-800$, from PPM, Spool, Pauter, etc. If you do, you'll need oil jets machined to the block's main oil tunnel, because the forged rods doesnt have oil hole for piston cooling. If you dont want to do any machinework, you could buy some forged Wiseco ones for around 500$, there are 3 different types wich are suitable for a G16, we used the one with the biggest dome and smallest piston height, with standard block and untouched head, it will gives nice 9,5:1 CR, its good for a turbocharged engine, with a smaller dome and bigger height, you can easily get a 10:1 or a little more. And 500$ is for a full kit, with floating pins, all rings, etc, the whole thing is plug'n'play.

The chipped ECUs doesnt run well on 1.6, standard ECU is the best for them, but if you want more, a standalone ECU is also recomended. This is also true about camshafts, the factory ones with a little adjustment is better then any aftermarket one. One of my friends tried a lot of them, from slightly modified factory ones to standard JDM Cultus ones, even some Group A cams, and the factory ones were the best. Dont forget, the G13B can rev up to 9k RPM, and some of the bigger cams starts to work over 5-6k rpm. The 1,6 cannot be safely rev over 7k with factory rods for long or repeated times, even withot forged conrods, its not safe to go over 7,5k. Its possible, but not safe. This is also true about oversized valves, bigger is not always better, the oversized valves make more restriction, actually, you can make more power with standard ones.

Most important, dont use cheap ass, chinese bearings, avoid even King or Clevite ones. You can get ACL Racing ones from Liana kits for the main bearings, but not for the conrods, and non-racing ACls also not too good, so if you can, and have the budget, use factory, SGP bearings. They worth the price. A new oil and water pump, and a new cooler with 1.0 or 1.3 bar cap, maybe an oil cooler also worth the price. You can get multi layered head gasket from strider, around 25$, and copper exhaust gasket for 20$ from SCE Gaskets. For the exhaust gasket, you should port the exhaust runners a bit. Another good idea is to open the rear of the block to drive out the gas fumes from the oil sump.

3: dont want to use GTI gearbox, the 1,6 internals are much stonger, if you want shorter gears, get a set from a new M16 suzuki swift sport, its gearset and final drive a direct replacement to the G16. The gears are shorter, and the 4.4 final drive matches with the Sport's 17" wheels, so 15" or bigger wheels with 195mm tyres recomended, or you'll constantly burn rubber. Or you can keep the factory 3.52 final drive. A torsen diff is highly recomended. The driveshaft can easily withstand the power, they arent weaker then the ones in a subaro or even an evo.

try redlinegti.com
Last edited by NSMO240 on 2014-05-21 at 03-14-34.
2014-05-21 18:27:06
sr20ve in a suzuki swift
I think the main issue would be how to get power to the ground. That aside an SR16 with lsd gearbox would be sweeeet
2014-05-21 19:05:30
Originally Posted by Nicoxis
I think the main issue would be how to get power to the ground. That aside an SR16 with lsd gearbox would be sweeeet

I subscribe... i had 5 swift gti´s, including a turbocharged one, it´s not worth it... it could be done, would be awesome, but you will have to deal with a bunch of problems, the gti is overpowered right from the factory, it´s narrow, and light and despite the independent suspension, doesn´t handle that well, even if you spend a fortune on custom suspension(there´s no other way) the suspension arms are on awkward angles and if you lower it much, you wont have travel... then there´s the braking options.

If you want to go fast the g13b as plenty of potencial, it´s a little engine with alot of potential, i have a friend with a turbo 300bhp G13b, mine had around 150bhp and it was scary, there´s no point i think.

But you could go ahead, will be awesome... would love to see that.
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