Thread: VE on a stock DE ECU questions

why the coolant temp sensor? explain the difference...

Different coolant temp sensor is in the VE engine, for the VE ECU.

DE ECU won't recognize the VE, JDM coolant temp sensor.

if you have the funds to go out and race and get a ve engine and all that stuff, surely you have the funds to run a nismotronic ecu... maybe @JKTUNING could work you a deal if you throw some of his decals on your car?

Get a RR DE and be done with it. The car is being race in the Lemon series. Lemon = low budget abuse it. Why do you need a fancy engine and ecu.

I drove my car with the DE ecu on DE maf and DE coolant temp sensor with no issues. The best ecu is a 5spd p10 ecu. I had VVL hooked up and it ran pretty good. You can use the DE dizzy as well but it'll run better with the VVL dizzy.

It's a Lemons/Chump race car, low budget, split among several people. An SR20VE is not that far off in terms of the price from a RR SR20DE ($700 vs $400), and the engines typically have far less miles. That's why I'm looking at a VE as an option. A nismotronic ecu would cost be $500+ and another $200 for step down OBD1 harness, so it would basically double the cost, just not feasible. And that is why I'm asking IF it's possible to run with stock ECU.

Exactly. Thanks for the input.

We run a 5sp p10 ECU as well, as it eliminates the speed limiter. So you didn't have to use the DE injectors? What was your timing set at? How was the F/A ratio and did you have the car dynoed?

I used the VVL injectors. I was told that using the DE injectors helps make a bit more power but i never wanted to switch them out. I never knew the timing because the way the DE dizzy mounts to the motor causes the dizzy plug to hit the VVL solenoids so you can't really adjust the timing. I also never got it to the dyno or seen the a/f ratios. I did get like 28 mpgs daily driving though.

I still can't get over that video. That is absolutely insane. The fireball and all.

BTW don't know if this applies, or it may since VE's are from across the pond or Japan as well.. but swapping in the 10:1 euro SR20DE motor and not swapping the coolant temp sensor can cause the OEM gauge to read hotter than it really is.. believe because it's in Celsius and U.S. cars (gauges) are Fahrenheit. I had a B13 with a JDM SR20DE and the temp needle always looked high. First time I drove it I freaked out until I called the previous owner and he explained

It used to be low budget. Have you seen the cages that are mandatory now? Not to mention the gear per person is $1k plus. One could certainly argue nothing is as important as safety, but 24 hours has gotten widely popular they are doing a lot of CTA (covering their asses) with all these new regulations. So it's pretty likely and possible your safety gear costs more than the car you're racing with.

Oh and no idea why but the most successful car so far at these things has been certain 1980's Volvo station wagon models.

The Volvos do well, for whatever reason they're the only thing 'turbo' that's fairly reliable on the track. However BMWs are by far the most popular choices. Miatas are everywhere too, but most of them are stock and fairly slow. Gear, and good gear at that, could be had for less than $1k, but you're right in terms of the car. Cage alone is about $2K, and once you start replacing all the other worn out shit for 'safety' the price goes up from there. For anyone interesting in venturing into the world of Lemons/Chump motoring I would say be prepared to spend at least $2500 per person (you'll need at least four) including the gear before the first race.