Thread: Best activation for stock vvl

agreed tried it at 4800 pulls really good all the way to 7500....but i feel a really big pull when set at 5k but problem there is traction problems in 1st gear car spins the tires

Every car is different so the best way to set your vvl is based off of a Dyno graph. What Ecu are you using with the msd window switch?

From the cars I have seen on the dyno 4700-5000 most cars were 4700 no dips in the graph.

It's really hard to set the switchover point by seat of the pants feel. This is because you are looking for the setting where you really don't feel a lot of change when the cams switch. If you feel a surge of power at the switch point, it probably means that you should have switched the cams sooner because the low cam is falling off and the surge is felt when the high cam engages and provides more power. This may feel good, but it's not where you want to be ("feels good and works good are not the same thing").

If you can manage it at all, it's worth an hour of dyno time to get this right. When it is right, you can hear the switchover, but you don't feel a big surge of power.

^^ right no. When my vvl crosses over you can't feel it at all. I also noticed that switching cams separate is not only smoother feeling but also translated to a smoother Dyno graph for both hp and tq. Dyno time is worth the $. I spent an hour on the Dyno and it made all the difference.

The stock SR20VE lower lobes start loosing power at 4500rpm... the car will see a gain on power and even more important on TORQUE if the VVL kicks in between 4600 and 4800, after that... if you activate higher yea you will see the rolled burnout and feel the push into your seat... but you will be loosing power under the curve for activating too high... i have SR16 cams and im still activating at 4800... and the power gain can be noticed on the dyno graph.

If you are not seeing any gains switching at 4600-4800 you either have a tunning problem or something wrong inside your engine...



Back then my car was tunned by a honda tunner and he did it so good that you could not hear or feel the change the car pulled hard al the way up on the powerband. so hearing the cams switch or feeling the push not always means it is right... also it is a SR20VE with stock cams, there is a lot of info about this and it is known that they like switching below 5000 both together... try it on the dyno, you will see im right.

Would your advice be different since I have N1 cams?


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The N1 cams like to switch at much higher RPM. The principles and approach are the same. There are lots of specs on switch points that other folks are using with N1s if you search for them on this forum.

I have heard that some people switch the N1s at 5000-5200 but that is because the N1 low lobe is like the stock one and the high lobe is for very high RPM.

N1's are different, some like 5500 some like 6000. My car was 6k my friends car is around 5500.