Thread: VVL coolant boiling over

AHAHAH I FIGURED THIS OUT A LONG TIME AGO.. IT HAPPENED TO ME....

rear hoses leaked... minimal... but caused air to be caught in the system..... replace all hoses on the rear of the motor ALL... then bleed system properly with the bleeder.

then BAM.... never again.

Preached it already

So guess what, the reason the fan didn't work was there was a short at the ECU or something.

We created a new switch to the fan directly, and mounted it on the dash. Only strange thing is the idle drops low and acts lopey when it's switched on. but I like being able to hit the switch when I need to.

so let me understand this..... the only way the fan comes on is if u do it manually?

Yes. It's just a switch right up next to the hazards. Cheap stuff from RadioShack. It will run with the accessories on too if I want it to. But again for whatever reason, my car only has the drivers side fan. I need to get a passenger too.

Here's a photo. About time I used that little panel for something

What about fixing the ecu or the short? Car not running at optimum temperature if you have engage fan manually...

Peace

Yeah, I know. To be honest, well, I suck at electronics. I can do cam swaps and change clutches but electronics just don't gel with me. Instead of messing with the ECU (which is a HUGE mess of random wires, it looks like a bad experiment gone wrong, and all kinda crap) I decided to go the switch route. It was very simple to do. Now if I see the temp needle rising I just hit the switch, and the fans also can run with the engine off and the accessories on if the switch is turned on.

I know relying on the OEM temp needle is a fool's game. So I plan on upgrading that as well.

see edit below

Ok so my head gasket is going, I have a brand new one on the way from Greg.

But guess what.

My friend has a shop in his garage, where he currently has a Skyline engine in a 240sx. He knows his stuff. He used to have a DET. After much discussion last night, we started talking about doing it at his place.

We are going to port and polish the head, and do a valve job, new head studs, since we have to change the head gasket anyway.

Now I could opt for the thinner Cometic gasket to slightly raise compression, but I am more concerned about reliability so I'm going with this gasket:

VVL Metal Head Gasket, This is the factory “Metal Head Gasket” for the SR VVL Engines. This head gasket should hold more power for turbo applications and is less likely to blow


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It appears my overheating was a combination of many factors. I have since wired 2 new coolant fans to a switch inside the cabin, did two complete radiator flushes per FSM, and am running 80 percent distilled water and Redline water wetter. The head gasket finally went way of the dinosaur the other day, I knew it immediately, car started blowing cold air with the heat on high, fans made no difference, and I began to see white smoke from the exhaust. Shut it down immediately and pushed it to a lot. Waited and sat around for almost 2 hours for it to cool down, started it up, it ran fine, drove it a bit, then shut it down for good. Now am going to tow from this place to my friend's, and we are going to get to work later this week.

Plenty of pictures to come. I'm excited.