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Thread: sr20ve itbs 50mm bmw

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Posts: 171-180 of 184
2013-08-06 05:20:57
#171
ok i got some cams coming, these ones SR16VE N1 Camshafts | Trade Me
2013-08-06 08:13:59
#172
Originally Posted by bummy
ok i got some cams coming, these ones SR16VE N1 Camshafts | Trade Me


Nice!
2013-08-09 20:56:37
#173
this is my recipe for engine build

brand new p12 block and crank
je 86mm 12.5:1 pistons
eagle h beam rods
acl race bearings
maz worx head stud kit
maz worx main stud kit
n1 water pump
standed head with new seats and guides
sr16ve n1 cams
bc dual springs and titanium retainers
vet metal head gasket
all new timing gear and oil pump
and running my bmw m3 50mm quad throttle bodys
and the new stainless header

rev to 9k limit.unless power drops off.

i might skim the head to bump compression a bit yet.
as we have good fuel here in oz 98 octane

all tuned by the haltech ps1000 ecu

what are peoples thoughts.
2013-08-09 20:59:27
#174
in deed and i got them from you


Originally Posted by pTen
Originally Posted by bummy
ok i got some cams coming, these ones SR16VE N1 Camshafts | Trade Me


Nice!
2013-08-09 21:03:10
#175
Re: sr20ve itbs 50mm bmw
Just a heads up on the mazworx main studs. U will need to use the de/det girdle or machine spacers.

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2
2013-08-09 21:05:10
#176
ok thanks. for the heads up, and dam i just chucked out a dead de engine to. ok will track down a girdle.

Originally Posted by Mr.sentra_specv
Just a heads up on the mazworx main studs. U will need to use the de/det girdle or machine spacers.

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2
2013-08-09 21:51:15
#177
Originally Posted by bummy
this is my recipe for engine build

brand new p12 block and crank
je 86mm 12.5:1 pistons
eagle h beam rods
acl race bearings
maz worx head stud kit
maz worx main stud kit
n1 water pump
standed head with new seats and guides
sr16ve n1 cams
bc dual springs and titanium retainers
vet metal head gasket
all new timing gear and oil pump
and running my bmw m3 50mm quad throttle bodys
and the new stainless header

rev to 9k limit.unless power drops off.

i might skim the head to bump compression a bit yet.
as we have good fuel here in oz 98 octane

all tuned by the haltech ps1000 ecu

what are peoples thoughts.


Looks like a good build, I look forward to the numbers! As far as shaving the head to raise compression, I would not bother to do that. You will see a negligible gain in compression and more than likely will not notice a difference in power. Not to mention, having a lot of material taken off of the head will affect the mechanical timing and leave you with no room to resurface down the road if you have an overheating isue. If it were me, I would just have the block (yes, I know it's new) with the front cover installed and the head brought to a reputable machine shop to check truness. If the head needs to be skimmed in order to facilitate a perfect seal, then just remove the bare minimum.

Just my 2 cents. Good luck with the build!
2013-08-09 21:56:48
#178
yes good point, not really needed i guess. has to be better then i have now i guess. i just want it to be reliable as this is a race engine and gets punished and pushed hard. current engine has seen 8000rpm limiter for 12km's holding it flat.

mind you my coil pack didnt end well on two cylinders but later found out my dwell for coils was out by .5 sec


Originally Posted by B15NEOVVL
Originally Posted by bummy
this is my recipe for engine build

brand new p12 block and crank
je 86mm 12.5:1 pistons
eagle h beam rods
acl race bearings
maz worx head stud kit
maz worx main stud kit
n1 water pump
standed head with new seats and guides
sr16ve n1 cams
bc dual springs and titanium retainers
vet metal head gasket
all new timing gear and oil pump
and running my bmw m3 50mm quad throttle bodys
and the new stainless header

rev to 9k limit.unless power drops off.

i might skim the head to bump compression a bit yet.
as we have good fuel here in oz 98 octane

all tuned by the haltech ps1000 ecu

what are peoples thoughts.


Looks like a good build, I look forward to the numbers! As far as shaving the head to raise compression, I would not bother to do that. You will see a negligible gain in compression and more than likely will not notice a difference in power. Not to mention, having a lot of material taken off of the head will affect the mechanical timing and leave you with no room to resurface down the road if you have an overheating isue. If it were me, I would just have the block (yes, I know it's new) with the front cover installed and the head brought to a reputable machine shop to check truness. If the head needs to be skimmed in order to facilitate a perfect seal, then just remove the bare minimum.

Just my 2 cents. Good luck with the build!
2013-08-13 12:53:37
#179
Originally Posted by bummy
this is my recipe for engine build

brand new p12 block and crank
je 86mm 12.5:1 pistons
eagle h beam rods
acl race bearings
maz worx head stud kit
maz worx main stud kit
n1 water pump
standed head with new seats and guides
sr16ve n1 cams
bc dual springs and titanium retainers
vet metal head gasket
all new timing gear and oil pump
and running my bmw m3 50mm quad throttle bodys
and the new stainless header

rev to 9k limit.unless power drops off.

i might skim the head to bump compression a bit yet.
as we have good fuel here in oz 98 octane

all tuned by the haltech ps1000 ecu

what are peoples thoughts.



Sounds like a good build!

However if it was me, I would bolt up the p12 block complete if new and build the one you have now. In your sport I think it is worth it to have a spare block handy and the p12 stock block is a good thing!

Also when building using the 4cw crank you have now isn't a bad thing for high rpm due to the lightness. People will debate it though.

I think you can lower the rpm to 8500 though for longevity, as you say your first need to finish to finish first.


Other wise mad build!
2013-08-13 12:56:48
#180
Oh one more thing, if you haven't ordered the pistons yet...I would consider sleeving and running 90mm pistons and a little headwork, at least a valve grind. Running the 90mm bore helps deshroud the inlet valves. You will see a common theme on here of big bore engines making good power.

SO if it was me, I would run the p12 bottom in the mean time, and build a 90mm with engine currently in buggy.
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