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Thread: My ve is too slow

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Posts: 51-60 of 107
2012-10-03 19:01:30
#51
yes you will be fine and who will tune your car cause i would be weary for you to do it
2012-10-03 19:11:42
#52
You going to switch your cams at 4500? I would try around 5200 with that setup.
Last edited by MR-4Door-SR20DET on 2012-10-03 at 19-12-11.
2012-10-03 19:14:28
#53
Originally Posted by morgans432
do your research spoon feeding time has ended


Then just let us help him. No biggie
2012-10-03 19:15:02
#54
nismotronics ftw, u could go with the nistune but if you ever want to tune ur car by urself u will need a license which is a couple hundred dollars if im not mistaken.
2012-10-03 19:15:18
#55
Car seems alright to me man.
2012-10-03 19:21:03
#56
Originally Posted by MR-4Door-SR20DET
You going to switch your cams at 4500? I would try around 5200 with that setup.


The cam switch point is decision from the ... we in germany say "Abstimmer" The guy with the dyno and the laptop :o

Originally Posted by liljay781
nismotronics ftw, u could go with the nistune but if you ever want to tune ur car by urself u will need a license which is a couple hundred dollars if im not mistaken.


I wouldn't put it past me. So I drive to a firm and let they do this.
Last edited by riverna on 2012-10-03 at 19-23-14.
2012-10-03 20:25:30
#57
if you go with nistune you will need to purchase an external switching device, and you will also need to purchase the cable and nistune software licence to tune it for your own car, so the costs will be higher than the nismotronic setup, not to mention that nistune is an inferior product
2012-10-03 22:58:11
#58
Shoot me a PM if you have any questions about the NismoTronic package, I would be glad to lend you a hand.

Also, it will work with your current setup and if you have a wideband in the car, which I highly recommend, there are plenty of people in the tuning section or NismoTronic section of this forum who can help you get the car dialed in and running properly.
2012-10-03 23:24:09
#59
My VE was slow too (for the price!), thus I'm upgrading it with a Loller Rocker

Originally Posted by riverna
I usually dont drive in the rev limiter a lot, but I dont want to risk a damage because of a couple of dollars. Is it better to work with the stock springs or the better springs? I think I will only drive on the quater mile in the rev limiter and rar in the street. But we have the german autobahn... you know what I mean?

Let us remember:
nx2000 sr20de ecu with NismoTronic RT Packages
sr16ve n1 cams
light flywheel
8400 - 8600 rpm max rev
vvl point at 4500rpm
2.5" stainless steel headers
200 cell racing cat
2.5" midpipe
invidia n1 muffler
k&n cold air intake
new springs (which producer?)

No extra switch cam controller. Thats ok? I know... I bored you


N1 cams don't usually like to be activated 4500 or any lower. What I usually do is do a dyno run on low cams only and then do a another run with high cams only. Overlay the two graphs and bam where they cross is where you should activate.

If you get a NismoTronic ecu, you can activate cams with any of the 4 outputs, AC, EGR, AIV, O2 Heater. This lets you do individual cam activation too.

N1 cams have very smooth ramps, on a 20VE, you can rev it to 9k rpm and you shouldn't get valve float. Granted it's not a bad idea to have stiffer springs in-case you miss shift, but how often do you miss shift and go above 9k rpm?
2012-10-04 16:32:10
#60
vadim your ve was slow because you had it in a heavy turd box.
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