Originally Posted by
Jybfan04 I have a question regarding the SR20VE head swap onto a SR20DET bottom end. I am doing research on this head swap as I want to start collecting parts once I have my bottom end finished being built. Currently this is what my bottom end will consist of:
CP 86.5mm 8:5.1 CR pistons
SCAT rods with ARP hardware
ARP main studs
ARP bearings
1) Outside of changing the front cover to a VE front cover for use of the more higher flowing oil pump and gear needed for the VE swap.
2) How do I ensure I have valve clearance between the head and bottom end?
3) Does the pistons need to be notched or anything?
4) what other parts will I need for the swap?
1) see answer for #4
2) No clearance issues if all items are stock height (head and block). Please remember to install oil pump and resurface the block as the vvl oil pump is a bit shorter than the DET block
3) The pistons you described are designed for the block, so no notching for oil squirters. However, the pistons may/may not be designed for the VVL head, they may need valve notches for P2V clearance when the high lift cam comes in. take a look at the pics of a stock vvl piston and compare with your selection.
4) - vvl relocation kit (absolutely necessary, the head gets no oil without this)
- some ignition management (fwd dizzy is a no no for rwd setup)
- you will need to plug the rear drain (on intake side of block) for the sr20det block
- you will have to plug the vvl oil feed in the face of the vvl head
- you will need the sr20ve spacer for your crank shaft
- you have to consider the Intake manifold as none are direct swaps to the vvl head
- the exh ports for the vvl head do not correctly align with the typical rwd exh manifold, so use the vvl gasket to ensure no overlapping
- the upper coolant adapter for the rad will have to be swapped from the Det head to the vvl head
- your timing marks will not align correctly with the vvl oil pump, as such, place the rwd crank pulley on the vvl crank pulley and re notch your timing marks on the rwd pulley (note the vvl front cover timing pin is shorter, so put the marks on the opposite side of the rwd pulley)
- by using the vvl spacer your pulleys will be about 1/4" behind your crank pulley. you will have to solve that one creatively (i made spacers for all accessories)
- the coolant neck (for heating accessories) from the vvl head must be reused and possibly modified. your routing here is up to you, specific to your setup.
if theres anything else i come up with, ill let ya know.