Thread: VE OBDII Passing Emissions

Okay so cran sensor is in new tranny is in the egr temp has a resistor. I been driving and no codes are coming up but i just got back from OBD testing and they say its not ready because i just reset my ecu today. I told them i just got done working on it. About how long until shes ready to go in again? Because before when i had codes i would reset the ecu then drive around the block and i would turn it off then on and codes would be flying

I could have told you it wasn't going to be ready. lol. OBD2 ecu's have around 7 monitors that it goes through to make sure the different systems are functioning properly like O2 sensors, Catalyst, EGR, Evap, etc. On our cars the hardest monitor to set is the Catalyst(Catalytic Converter). Make sure you drive the car for at least a couple hundred miles at varying speeds like city driving and highway. And not just in one trip, you need to do it in numerous on and off cycles. There's info out there if you google it. In California you're allowed to have a maximum of two monitors that aren't ready. Do you have a scanner? Most of the mid-level and up scanners will show if the monitors are ready.

No i don't :/ damn i dont have tags so i guess ill have to just dgaf it and stack some miles on it

a trip permit would be much less expensive then a fatty ticket! lol

True haha. Dude so idk wtf is with this thing. Im so frustrated, so the car was pulling crank sensor(8-2) along with code (3-2) EGR function... So i put the crank sensor in the tranny and i just got a CE says theres a problem with it... Maybe it needs to be closer to the fly wheel to get that magnetic contact? I put two washers cause i think it would hit the flywheel teeth. And now the code 3-2 EGR went away and now (3-5) exhaust gas temp sensor pops up... And this wasnt there yesterday. I have the EGR solenoid hooked up and i have a resistor in the EGR Temp sensor

The crank angle code is probably from placement...the washers are probably too thick. Check your vacuum routing on the solenoid and you probably have the wrong resistor in the connector. Did you bend the ends of the resistor so that it makes good contact on each side?

Yeah i already JB welded it on too nicely... Cause i didnt want to make a hole with thread (limited tools) and ill check the lines, Im sure they are wrong because i never figured out that pipe for the De throttle body that the VE doesnt have. And i forgot what type of resistirs i have like .75watts? idk how they are measured. And ill try and bend the ends. Should i fix these and then reset the ecu or just let it figure itself out?

If you're throwing codes, you'll need to reset the ecu once you fix the problems. The resistor should be a 68K ohm if I'm not mistaken. There's a thread about this. The extra vacuum nipple on the DE throttle body get capped I believe. I'll check to see how I did it on my P10.

this is something you should of thought about before doin a swap. i see alot of guy's making this mistake... if ya dont want all the problems, stay with a obd1 car.

p.s not tryin to be a dick so if it sounded like i was, i wasn't

Are you running the 108 or 109 tooth flywheel? Also, put in the 86kohm resistor in.

This thread my help you for passing readiness:

http://www.sr20-forum.com/general-sr20/51043-obd-readiness.html