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Thread: Todays dyno charts

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Posts: 51-60 of 60
2008-06-07 23:38:39
#51
1stly...if you listen for it, you'll hear it. you can also see it as some raggedy ass dyno trace.
secondly i didn't see a big effect the timing had on afr's. it's just a lot more prudent to get your afr's in line before you start adding timing because a lean mixture will detonate before a rich one will.
see post #27 i think. the fuel numbers are there. but each application is different so don't expect those values to be best (or safest) for yours.
i didn't screw with the k value at all...this time. i suggest you don't either unless you change injector size!
2008-06-08 02:46:16
#52
Originally Posted by Teal97
1stly...if you listen for it, you'll hear it. you can also see it as some raggedy ass dyno trace.
secondly i didn't see a big effect the timing had on afr's. it's just a lot more prudent to get your afr's in line before you start adding timing because a lean mixture will detonate before a rich one will.
see post #27 i think. the fuel numbers are there. but each application is different so don't expect those values to be best (or safest) for yours.
i didn't screw with the k value at all...this time. i suggest you don't either unless you change injector size!


oh i meant the column values in the rom itself, similar to ur post of the timing map
2008-06-08 05:54:22
#53
wow, that is crazy timing. My jwt map pulls timing to 15* when boost hits. This is way too conservative for 10psi, but I have found that when I raise the boost the timing map stays the same. So it looks like I should boost like 24-25psi before this map looks like a good tune lol. on 20psi I like to see about 20* advance on timing for turbo...

But anyways, good work man. Always nice to see another vvl setup.
2008-06-08 16:09:23
#54
spoon feeding@work
here you go blo0d

Originally Posted by Teal97

11.00 from 4800 and up. 4400 is at 11.47, 32 and 3600 are at 11.98, 1200-2400 are at 12.89 and 400&800 are at 13.25.


here's a most difficult extraction

8000=11.00
7200=11.00
6800=11.00
6000=11.00
5600=11.00
5200=11.00
4800=11.00

4400=11.47

3600=11.98
3200=11.98

2400=12.89
2000=12.89
1600=12.89
1200=12.89

800=13.25
400=13.25

Ric=asshole of the day
2008-06-08 17:49:17
#55
lol sorry man i didnt realize those were the entries in the map (in terms of afr) i was jus expecting the raw data... well what is interesting bout those afr's is that i can see why your afr is not at dead 13.0... it noticably falls off to about 12.5 at the fuel cut... a suggestion might be to lean out the afr entries as you climb the rpm range and not just keep it all at 11.00. I dont know if youll find more power but i dont see why you cant maintain a afr of 12.8-13.0.
2008-06-09 00:18:59
#56
it's all good
the car won't be back on the dyno until after the weather cools. there'll be a new entry in the "tuning" section of the Dash
2008-06-11 21:55:36
#57
Originally Posted by Teal97
44psi is ~3 bar (stock). i never touched the fp. here's an example of what i did:
1st do a couple full throttle dyno runs to log/chart your afr's with a wideband.
look at your afr chart to see where you want to add/subtract fuel as needed. in my case it was running lean above ~5k.
now take a look at your primary fuel correction chart. the left hand scale is in rpm (duh), the top scale i think of as throttle position. with wot being at the far right side of the chart (actually, i used the right 2 columns). what i did was lower the the numbers from 4800 rpm and up by ~.5 then do another pull to see the affect. result... not enough to bring the afr's down to where i want them, but i did see an affect in the right direction. whoo shiet i'm onto something here. then i subtracted another ~.75 or so and did another pull. and so on....
when i quit for the day those numbers were at 11.00 from 4800 and up. 4400 is at 11.47, 32 and 3600 are at 11.98, 1200-2400 are at 12.89 and 400&800 are at 13.25. now take another close look the area numbers and how they're laid out on the fuel table. you want a nice even transition, not huge jumps in the values. reason being, the ecu will use the values around a certain spot on the table to extrapolate from if it needs to. now copy this over to the secondary fuel table as well.
when you get your afr's down to an area you consider safe, start adding timing. remember what you've been reading about the VE...it LOVES TIMING! even with big cams this bitch loves timing now...since were only tuning wot i took the entire upper right hand section of the primary timing chart and added 2 to all the numbers. now do a pull and see what happens...hmm looks good. power is climbing. add another 1 to those same numbers and do another pull. yep still climbing. keep an eye on your afr's though because can go lean on you as you add timing. as in the fuel tables you don't want huge jumps in values... a nice smooth numerical transition is what you're looking for. keep adding timing till the power drops off. then back it down 1 degree near the top end and you oughta be good to go. now copy this chart over to the secondary timing chart.
now the wot is close to a perfect tune. my power went up by ~15whp/10wtq by using this method. it's important to keep your coolant temp around 185-190 during the tuning. use your heater fan to help regulate temps.
like i've said earlier...it can be a long process. my 1st time trying to learn this rt ecu cost me $$3 hours of dyno time$$, and ended up going back to the base tune because the shop owner and i buggered the numbers pretty bad and it ran like doodoo under anything but wot. but oh well . when i went back the 2nd time i had "A PLAN" and basically took control of the tuning from the shop owner. given this info i think what we just covered could be done in an hour. maybe 2 at most.

i know this was way long but hope it helps everyone get the most out of their Calum RT ecu. now get on the dyno and start tuning!!

Disclaimer:
plz don't use the exact numbers i put down here. they are fine for my particular setup but may cause serious damage to yours, for which i'm not responsible.

maybe this will help you visualize the maps





How would you go about doing it on a calum basic? Or do i just need to geta realtime lol. Is it just the same but i will have to burn chips 4573489 times to get it right?
2008-06-11 22:41:24
#58
Originally Posted by sr20ve-t
How would you go about doing it on a calum basic? Or do i just need to geta realtime lol. Is it just the same but i will have to burn chips 4573489 times to get it right?


Yep, pull them out everytime you need to change something. Luckily Nathan's realtime is obdII, so we can use that to tune mine easier, then just take the roms out and put them back into my basic.
2008-06-11 23:09:52
#59
poo on ya!
2008-06-19 19:53:47
#60
What was your k value? Trying to figure out why you had to add so much fuel
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