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Thread: Todays dyno charts

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Posts: 21-30 of 60
2008-04-14 10:49:34
#21
Is that WHP?! That's sweet!
2008-04-14 22:02:33
#22
Stock Pulsar VZ-R. SR17ve. Only 2.5" cat back piping with stock headers:



Sorry my 'little dyno' doesnt measure torque.

This works out to be about 146 whp
2008-04-15 03:49:02
#23
Wow 170lbs of torque. What kind of dyno is this? Hard to believe. I don't think anybody else has even come close to 170 ft pounds of torque with a 2.0 VVL
2008-04-15 04:01:20
#24
Originally Posted by TrackJunky82
Wow 170lbs of torque. What kind of dyno is this? Hard to believe. I don't think anybody else has even come close to 170 ft pounds of torque with a 2.0 VVL


miko does 160 untuned
2008-04-15 04:48:24
#25
Originally Posted by Teal97
thanks for the kind words... no real secrets to be had (except for the expertly digitized spikes). just a long, careful process of adding fuel to the rt ecu correction charts to bring the afr's in line, while also adding timing to the charts in the same region affected by the fuel changes. as little as 1* timing makes a +or- 3hp difference!
i'm revving it out to fuel cut, 7950 i believe. as far as data logging goes...long story made short, only the logging/plotting afforded by the dyno dynamics machine. i'm missing the cable for the lm-1 to hook to my laptop
on the street, this tune is very noticeable from the original, safe, 200.xx whp base tune. both sotp and sound wise


Very nice numbers, the tq is what really gets me



So you upped the base fp to 44psi with the nismo afpr, then you had to add more fuel in individual cells in the program also?
2008-04-15 19:42:31
#26
Is there something new with miko's, I've seen 155ftlbs of torque from graphs posted on the other board. Is that Miko's 20v motor. I know he's got a 20V and not the regular Sr20ve.
2008-04-15 23:46:02
#27
Very Long
Originally Posted by jer_760
Very nice numbers, the tq is what really gets me



So you upped the base fp to 44psi with the nismo afpr, then you had to add more fuel in individual cells in the program also?


44psi is ~3 bar (stock). i never touched the fp. here's an example of what i did:
1st do a couple full throttle dyno runs to log/chart your afr's with a wideband.
look at your afr chart to see where you want to add/subtract fuel as needed. in my case it was running lean above ~5k.
now take a look at your primary fuel correction chart. the left hand scale is in rpm (duh), the top scale i think of as throttle position. with wot being at the far right side of the chart (actually, i used the right 2 columns). what i did was lower the the numbers from 4800 rpm and up by ~.5 then do another pull to see the affect. result... not enough to bring the afr's down to where i want them, but i did see an affect in the right direction. whoo shiet i'm onto something here. then i subtracted another ~.75 or so and did another pull. and so on....
when i quit for the day those numbers were at 11.00 from 4800 and up. 4400 is at 11.47, 32 and 3600 are at 11.98, 1200-2400 are at 12.89 and 400&800 are at 13.25. now take another close look the area numbers and how they're laid out on the fuel table. you want a nice even transition, not huge jumps in the values. reason being, the ecu will use the values around a certain spot on the table to extrapolate from if it needs to. now copy this over to the secondary fuel table as well.
when you get your afr's down to an area you consider safe, start adding timing. remember what you've been reading about the VE...it LOVES TIMING! even with big cams this bitch loves timing now...since were only tuning wot i took the entire upper right hand section of the primary timing chart and added 2 to all the numbers. now do a pull and see what happens...hmm looks good. power is climbing. add another 1 to those same numbers and do another pull. yep still climbing. keep an eye on your afr's though because can go lean on you as you add timing. as in the fuel tables you don't want huge jumps in values... a nice smooth numerical transition is what you're looking for. keep adding timing till the power drops off. then back it down 1 degree near the top end and you oughta be good to go. now copy this chart over to the secondary timing chart.
now the wot is close to a perfect tune. my power went up by ~15whp/10wtq by using this method. it's important to keep your coolant temp around 185-190 during the tuning. use your heater fan to help regulate temps.
like i've said earlier...it can be a long process. my 1st time trying to learn this rt ecu cost me $$3 hours of dyno time$$, and ended up going back to the base tune because the shop owner and i buggered the numbers pretty bad and it ran like doodoo under anything but wot. but oh well . when i went back the 2nd time i had "A PLAN" and basically took control of the tuning from the shop owner. given this info i think what we just covered could be done in an hour. maybe 2 at most.

i know this was way long but hope it helps everyone get the most out of their Calum RT ecu. now get on the dyno and start tuning!!

Disclaimer:
plz don't use the exact numbers i put down here. they are fine for my particular setup but may cause serious damage to yours, for which i'm not responsible.

maybe this will help you visualize the maps
2008-04-16 00:33:40
#28
Man thanks so much for that long explanation!

Did you end up doing much partial throttle tuning? If so, was it just fuel? You are making great torque down low too, so I wondered if you left it alone for the most part?

Thanks again mate.


Dudeman
2008-04-16 00:50:15
#29
i did no partial throttle tuning. the car runs normally under those conditions.
next time i go to the dyno i'll try out a theory of mine. i'm thinking partial throttle tuning should be carried out near the diagonal line, mainly in the accelerate portion of the rectangle. or do you think it's entirely unnecessary. someone care to comment?? lets put our heads together here.
2008-04-16 01:09:59
#30
Those are great numbers...bet it pulls like a bat out of hell
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