Thread: sr20ve issue idle?

I take out the box with the buzzer in it under the dash....all my fuses are good....i`m SURE i have a few boost leaks and my iacv is from a de not a det but the part #`s are the same but i still think it`s not right

say what?????? pics please.

peep this thread - http://www.sr20-forum.com/vvl/44960-frankenstein-distributor.html

the thing is, ve's just have weird idle issues, everyone i've seen in person besides the sr16ve swap i did has some sort of idle issue. i believe this to be ecu related or something.

like i've said dan i'll get your car sorted out soon, theres nothing anyones going to be able to tell you from over the internet, its going to take some good ol fashion hands on shit to try to iron out.

i need to get another dvm also..

yup my VE-T when I put it in timing mode and diconnect the tps plug, the lowest it idles is 1500 rpm. the timing looks well on my nistune so I go off that and the car runs well after mesing with fuel maps and k values...

most idle issues can be corrected by adjusting the tps and the iacv. Also you may want to clean the iacv. they will act funny when dirty. I was able to get perfect idle with my stock ve ecu and my calum tuned ecu. this required nissan data scan so I could see what was going on and force changes on the ecu.

I've had the same problem with my VE since day one. Just a fact of life man.

Swapped IACV's when I got home from work Friday, helped with my idle a little, I think the rest due to timing (forgot to take a picture of my ghetto dizzy), I'll end up grinding a leg off like everyone else to make it fit.

This is the IACV from the DE. This is right above number 1 cylinder on the intake of course (completely different location the DE than VE)


And this is what you need to take off

I didn't take a picture of the IACV's out or in but they have a little plunger at the opposite site of the connector. The IACV's are the same thread size and everything so they should swap really easily, after you have it in just find the only female clip that fits into the sensor on the fuel injector harness

my 2.0 ve idled flawlessly @~800rpm with the de t/b/tps and iacv hooked up. with the Calum ecu or stock ecu or g20 ecu it did not matter. whether i was going into timing mode or not, it acted exactly like the de that came out.
now is another story...

my gf's ve idles ok, it doesn't stall out or nothing.. it just does that idle hunting shit a little bit, not so much when warm, mostley just the first few times you come to a stop before the cars fully warm.

i think its something to do with the iacv's on the ve's.. it seems like its hit or miss whether it wants to work correctly. not so much the little hex thing u can unscrew an swap for the de one but the other thing with the brown plug, think its the AAC? or some shit..





i see you found what i was talking about

Yes I did! I think just saying "Swap the IACV from the DE to the VE, their the same thread pitch and will work" or something of that degree would have been a little better description of what to do but nonetheless thanks to your help I have an IACV now :P even though I am still having idle issues... But like I said I am pretty sure that is due to timing. Oh and I ordered the stage 2 clutch kit and some other stuff from Gspec today, I'll post my progress on my car in my VE thread

the only thing i can suggest, which has been already suggested is to set the TPS then put the car into timing mode (i only use the laptop for this, screw the rain dance.) and get the idle / timing set.

aside from that just check for vac leaks and make sure the idle afr is right an all that..