Thread: vvl swap help

Are you running the correct MAF for the JWT ecu? What is your timing at?

Well don't get fed up with the swap. Nothing about an engine swap is easy. If you feel it's kicking your ass take a break and come back to it. Swaps are just a PITA, but the benefit at the end is awesome.

As for you bogging what info did you give JWT when they tuned it? Keep in mind anything you don't give them they will assume it's a stock DE item and program for such. It's pretty much the same for any ECU tune, you don't give the info they tune it for stock. You pretty much need to tell them everything from the pop charger all the way to the tail pipe.

Also it won't hurt to take your car down to a dyno and have them dial everything in. Cost is about $100-$150/hour in my area and that's with them running it and dialing everything in for you. Running it yourself is about $75-$100 in my area.

The MAF worked with the JWT ECU when it was in my 94, VE (Pathfinder) MAF, VE inj, 8K rev limit. Did you adjust your TPS yet? Did you check the tension of your throttle cable so there is no slack when you apply throttle? Did you check your timing yet? Cap, rotor & plug wires good? Are your vacuum lines hooked up correctly with no leaks? Are your clamps secure to your intake? You have to go over all these possibilities and then some. The ECU is tuned for your setup MAF and all because it worked flawlessly when I took it out. As Kcobabe said nothing about an engine swap is easy. A tuneup is critical to establish a base to troubleshooting other issues that may and usually do occur. Adjusting TPS, timing, MAF voltage, checking cap & rotor, plugs and wires, checking for vacuum leaks are just the beginning of finding what the problem is. The only major difference in your swap and mine that may contribute is that you are probably using the VE throttle body. I have always used the DE throttle body which fits on the VE intake manifold with no modifications. Shouldn't be part of your problem but don't rule it out.

Yeah im running the correct MAF for the JWT tune. Timing is at 19. The TPS is around .40
I have a park/nuetral switch CEL and out of nowhere the CEL went away and the cars running like crap. Its not in limp mode and also the light on the ecu is on. Im not sure what that means. And yeah Al im going to put the de TB back on there. Yeah a dyno tune would be great but we'll see and there aren't any vacuum leaks

Yeah has new ngk plugs and the wires im pretty sure are good. Idk where this problem is coming from but its getting worse

JWT recommends their timing at 15 with their ECU.TPS should be at .45-.55V with throttle closed. Reset the ECU and check all the codes that are present. Know you've done this already but recheck your ECU grounds to the intake manifold. When adjusting timing with the JWT ECU it has to be in timing mode for sure to change yours back to 15. Keep us posted. So the car ran better with the P/N CEL?

Yeah i wanted it at 15 and all the guys were like leave it at 19. Also the TPS i tried putting it at .48 but i guess the volt meeter is broken or something so i can do that right now. And okay ill check the codes here soon. The grounds, checked them today. MAF ground is secure

She started running alot better just now. Not really lagging anymore at low RPM. I adjusted the idle and slightly BARELY turned the TPS naked eye and now its ALOT better. I reset the ECU earlier, the CEL is back on but i was expecting it to be.

Just a heads up, you will make more power at 15. This isn't a Calum basic ECU. Don't know which guys you were talking to but Clark Steppler at JWT recommends 15 and I've known him for over 9 years since he is the one that reprograms the chips and tunes the ECUs along with Jim Wolf. Optimum power at 15 bro. Your call. When I dynoed 191whp on the Dynojet the JWT was set at 15. We tried to bump up the timing and it lost power up top, as much as 5-7whp.

Oh ill definitely take your word man, Thanks. Ill take it down to 15 when i come across a timing gun. Ill also get the TPS adjusted right. These little things have such effect. Ill re check all the couplers and leaks. Grounds are good

Okay, the RPM are jumping drastically when i get the car to idle at normal idle rpm around 800-900. But when it idles around 1k its pretty steady. Im cleaning my air filter right now. I'll pull the codes in about an hour to see whats popping up