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Thread: vvl swap help

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Posts: 121-130 of 301
2012-02-04 06:35:53
#121
Hey guys, okay just drove it for the first time. i put a fuse from my brothers car. But the fans are staying on 24/7. the idle is at 2k rpm's. i wanted to tune the distributor so i warmed it up and than turned it off. i disconnected the tps and tightened down the idle screw all the way. the car is still running, meaning theres a air leak. im gonna go pick up a shwisher sweet to try and seep it out tonight. anyone got ideas on the fans?
2012-02-04 07:00:00
#122
Okay so i missed a sensor. i saw the female side and knew it was dangling there but i just found the male side so the fans are good now. Now i just have to fix this idle and throttle. Just gonna check it out tomorrow
2012-02-04 17:02:26
#123
So i got a ciggar and tried that trick. No air leakes what so ever... But i cant tune this idle and distributor. The car wont let me or something. No air leakes but the car runs with the idle screww tightened. it idles at 2k and revs to 2.5k when i turn. please help im out of ideas
2012-02-04 17:59:01
#124
What does it do when you unscrew the idle screw? Which throttle body are you using? Is your throttle cable too tight? The throttle plate should completely close when it's at idle or off....double check that. If it doesn't there's an adjustment screw on it. Also double check your wiring that you did on the IACV.
2012-02-04 20:54:14
#125
I havent really unscrewed it.

Im using the ve throttle body

the cable is perfectly adjusted

i havent really looked inside the throttle body to see if its closed, maybe i need to adjust that

and the wiring on the IACV? im not sure
2012-02-04 21:53:27
#126
When you close the throttle body you should here close shut. You'll also need to voltage on the TPS....it could be out of adjustment.

As far as the IACV it was the purple and brown plugs....the DE has a brown and a gray one I believe...make sure you plugged in the right brown plug. In addition the IACV can get pretty gunky and it's a good idea to take it off and clean it with some carb cleaner. Just make sure you don't break the gasket since you have to reuse it. It's a good idea to use some silicone to seal it back up since the gasket can be pretty brittle and may not seal completely once you put it back on.
2012-02-05 00:28:54
#127
Post a picture of you throttle body, showing fast-idle adjust screw and cold-idle adjust screw (allan key head). You have to set your idle before you re-set your TPS, if you want your TPS to be accurate. Do you have your coolant lines hooked up to the throttle-body?
2012-02-05 05:40:38
#128
Originally Posted by SER96VSPEC
When you close the throttle body you should here close shut. You'll also need to voltage on the TPS....it could be out of adjustment.

As far as the IACV it was the purple and brown plugs....the DE has a brown and a gray one I believe...make sure you plugged in the right brown plug. In addition the IACV can get pretty gunky and it's a good idea to take it off and clean it with some carb cleaner. Just make sure you don't break the gasket since you have to reuse it. It's a good idea to use some silicone to seal it back up since the gasket can be pretty brittle and may not seal completely once you put it back on.


Yeah i dont think the plate is shut all the way. Im about to look at it thanks alot man
2012-02-05 05:42:02
#129
Originally Posted by B15NEOVVL
Post a picture of you throttle body, showing fast-idle adjust screw and cold-idle adjust screw (allan key head). You have to set your idle before you re-set your TPS, if you want your TPS to be accurate. Do you have your coolant lines hooked up to the throttle-body?


My computer is down so i cant post pics. But how do you reset the TPS? ans everything is hooked up fine im sure of it. im gonna try to adjust the plate inside the throttle body. i have to figure out how first
2012-02-05 08:21:00
#130
Originally Posted by sugarwaterpurpl
My computer is down so i cant post pics. But how do you reset the TPS? ans everything is hooked up fine im sure of it. im gonna try to adjust the plate inside the throttle body. i have to figure out how first



In order to adjust the TPS you need to figure out the high idle first. If you adjust the TPS at closed throttle position with an idle of 2000 RPM it will screw everything up.

The only things that I can think of that would stop your throttle plate from closing are: something is wedged in there, the throttle cable is too tight so the throttle body plate isn't closing, the fast-idle screw (on top of TB) is screwed in too much or your cold-idle adjust screw is screwed in too much. The cold idle screw would only cause a high idle in this case if you don't have your coolant lines hooked up to the throttle body. If the lines are not hooked up the warm coolant will not affect the plunger in the TB and the idle will stay high. If the lines are hooked up and warm coolant is circulating through the throttle body, this is not the cause of your high idle.

Your best bet is to take off the TB and check everything out. My guess is it is just the cold-idle adjust though. While you have your TB off you should take the opportunity to secure your throttle plate screws, if you haven't already done this. These screws have a tendency of coming loose and getting sucked into the motor. Bad news if that happens. Carefully remove the screws with a good phillips screw-driver (do not strip screws), apply Red Loctite to the threads and re-install the screws and make sure they are tight!

If your coolant lines are not hooked up to the throttlebody, hook them up and you will probably fix the idle issue.

Check the above things and report back. If you get your idle figured out enough so that it idles below 1000 RPM, you can then put your car in timing mode and do a proper idle re-learn. Then you can set your TPS to between 0.48-0.50 volts closed throttle and appx. 4.0 volts at WOT (wide open throttle). Setting the TPS should be last out of these things.


Timing Mode/Idle Adjust: To put the car in timing mode you need to have your idle under 1000 RPM to be effective.

1) Warm up engine fully and make sure it is idling under 1000 RPM
2) Disconnect the TPS sensor. Car will rev up a bit and then settle back down. Wait a few seconds for the idle to stabilize.
3) Rev the car up 3 times above 3000 RPM, to lock the car in timing mode.
4) Find the IACV screw on the intake manifold, by the purple and brown plugs. It is a black plastic screw on the passenger side of the manifold. Close it.
5) If your car is still running, find the fast-idle screw on top of the throttle body. Turn the screw until the car idles where you want it. 800-900 RPM depending on how your car idles.
6) Secure/tighten the nut on the screw so the screw doesn't move.
7) Re-connect the TPS and wait a few seconds and then turn the car off.
8) Turn the car back on and make sure it idles properly, then disconnect the TPS again, wait for the car to rev up the idle and then stabilize again. Plug the TPS back in.

At this point you can unscrew the IACV screw a few turns to where the car idles nicely under all conditions.

Finished.

Next you can move on to adjusting the TPS voltage with a voltmeter or Digital Multi-meter.


Setting TPS: TPS Voltage Adjustment


Cold-idle Adjust

**FYI, if you are adjusting your cold idle screw (allan type on the bottom of the throttle body), make sure you loosen the nut before you try and turn the screw. In most cases you should not need to mess with the cold-idle screw. If the coolant lines are hooked up and the cold idle is still too high you can adjust this screw in or out to get your cold-idle where you want it. Mine is set at 1450 RPM. Make sure the motor is fully cold though before attempting this!


Hope this helps. Post up if you have any more problems. Just make sure to address one thing at a time in the proper order. Goof Luck!
Last edited by B15NEOVVL on 2012-02-05 at 08-34-54.
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