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Why is my vvl so hard to start

Thread: Why is my vvl so hard to start

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Posts: 11-20 of 32
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2011-12-18 15:14:27
#11
Originally Posted by Dave_SR20
You may have bad injectors. Leaks when the engine is off


i doubt tht.

matter a fact, at cc injectors does the sr20ve engine com wit. i was told 333cc
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2011-12-18 15:25:52
#12
Originally Posted by M0J0
Battery problem? My DE woudn't start well either, until I replaced the battery.


tht Might hav been the problem.

but i just bought a new battery the other day.

and am havin the same issue..
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2011-12-18 15:26:49
#13
Originally Posted by gtswrx
Battery grounds. If bettery is in the trunk, change it back to the front.


grounds u say...hhmmm

ill hav to look into it
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2011-12-18 15:27:56
#14
alright.. wat gap should i use (sr20 ve)
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2011-12-18 15:29:05
#15
Originally Posted by Jason

i doubt tht.

matter a fact, at cc injectors does the sr20ve engine com wit. i was told 333cc


Stock injectors can leak also. Injector leak would be an "extreme case" do yhr other recom above before you get to this
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2011-12-18 15:30:42
#16
Originally Posted by Vadim
Check your spark plugs. Every time I replace mine she starts up a lot easier.


wat gap should i use.(sr20ve)

i kno the gap rating for the DE is 31 to 35.

but the software tht i got tht info from did not hav the specs for the ve engine.
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2011-12-18 15:31:30
#17
Originally Posted by macakin
I've seen the same problem on most of the cars with a chipped ECU's


my ecu is stock
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2011-12-18 15:33:16
#18
Originally Posted by ashtonsser
Mmm, I doubt its a tune thing. Both my car and buddies started without any hesitation or trouble. The most common for poor or hesitation to start during cranking is a weak battery, bad ground cables, usually common with batteries in the trunk done crappy. Problem lies when your cranking on a weak battery its sucking up most of the battery power thats left and dropping the voltage sometimes to 9-10 volts during cranking and not enough juice to supply a good spark or sometimes not enough juice for the ecu to stay powered on correctly. Usually it hesitates for a bit until the starter gets up to full speed cranking and then in between compression strokes it tries to fire once some stress is taken off the starter.

Could be a number of things though, plugs not gapped correctly making cold starts or warm starts hard, dirty injectors, fueling problem, and several others.



thanks. am gonna hav to ask my mechanic to check the voltage while starting.
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2011-12-18 15:34:36
#19
Originally Posted by Vadim
It's all in the tune. If you have a chipped ECU but stock injectors/maf then you should be fine.

Technical reason as to why:
Our ecu's are tuned for 259cc injectors. They have cranking enrichment and cold start tables. They basically dump more fuel when your cranking it, or when you cold start it. This enrichment is part of the calculation to get a the total amount of fuel that injectors should spray.

When you install bigger injectors (333cc on VE's), you will have more fuel being dumped per pulse width. This is why you need to adjust your K value to, otherwise you will be too rich. By adjusting your K value you are adjusting another variable that is part of the calculation to get the total amount of fuel to spray. Adjusting the K value is a good way to adjust your AFR's across the whole fuel map, but doesn't mean your cranking and cold start enrichment will be right anymore.

Thus you need to adjust those tables for the car to run like it did before. Now if you adjust your K value to be too lean, then you will actually have to add to the enrichment tables otherwise you will have lean spots while cranking/cold driving.

Same goes with the MAF, you mess with the K value when you install a new MAF thus you mess with all of the calculations.


thats the cc rating for the sr20ve ?
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2011-12-18 15:53:15
#20
333cc sr20ve/sr16ve
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