Thread: vvl rpm kick in

getting closer to being finished with my ve swap. what rpms do u have vvl kick in at? I was suggested intake at 4500 and exhaust and 5000. and do they make a module that controls both or do have to buy 2 modules one for each? thanks

I haven't heard or read up on the intake and exhaust doing it at different RPMs but I have mine set @ 5200... Was 4800 but was to low for me.

stock cams? if so have them engage at the same time usually somewhere between 4700-5000. Some modules have the ability to switch them independently, but if you're running stock cams you can get away with wiring them both together. I did that on my P10 and it works fine (I'm using a cheap Summit window switch). I have a GReddy MSS in my B14, but they're discontinued and hard to find.

yep stock cams. ok thanks for the help. so i can use that cheap summit window switch you are talking about and have them engage at the same time? this will be for my b14 98 200sx if that matters. thanks

Yea.... summit switch is fine. I personally use this switch... but either will work fine. At the same time would be best for stock cams. And I have a 99 Sentra Se-L.... so works fine for me.

the best way to know where to engage the vvl is at the dyno, but usually with stock cams is like 4500 to 5000, mines work better at 4700, and i personally recommend MSD 8969...GOOD LUCK!

thanks, so when i have it on the dyno how can i tell when? can u go more into detail on that? thanks. and can that msd 8969 active both cams but each cam at a different rpm or...?

disconnect vvl solenoids and do a run without it and you should see where the graph stop to make power due to low cam and you should set it exactly or 100rpm after or before that... GOOD LUCK!

thanks again, how about that msd 8969 did u happen to catch my ? on that last post? thanks

^ MSD 8969 - Controls both cams at the same time as there is only 1 output. Like wayne said a dyno is always the best bet to figure out where your low cams start to drop off. The low cam is a pretty solid cam and can give give you power past 5000 RPM no problem. I think the factory switch points for the cams are in the high 5000 range for intake and 6200 for exhaust. I may be wrong on my numbers but the point being you do not have to switch them at 4500 if you don't want to. If the car is a DD and you don't want to be running on the high cam all the time because of gas mileage then switch it higher. If you don't care about gas mileage switch it lower.

I switch my cams usually at 5000, sometimes at 4800 and occasionally at 5200. They feel the best to me at 5000. I have run on the low cams past 6000 and not noticed any valve float but I believe power starts to drop off, on my car anyway, around 5800-6100 RPM.

The Granatelli window switch can control the cam solenoids seperately.
The Greddy MSS controls seperately.
Apex-i VAFC changes solenoids at the same time.
MSD 8969 changes solenoids at the same time.
There are many other switches as well.

I use a Honda specific Apex-i VAFC to change mine at the same time with no problems at all!