Thread: choke at WOT??

Check tps, maf. Ignition parts and vacuum leaks and grounds

did you ever find your problem and solve it, i am working on a car at the moment with the same problem. i am thinking it is the maf or tps...i just gotta figure out what the voltage is supposed to be

if you fixed your car post a reply with what it was and how it was fixed

Not yet..

I was also thinking maf or tps and after checking my tps I believe it is bad.

Tps voltage is supposed to be like 0.45 closed and 4.something open I belive.

Mine is in the low 3s open even adjusted all the way over.

Actually I upon harder searching I have all the symtoms of a bad tps!

Idle sure, car jerking, hesitation upon heavy acceleration...

I think im in the same boat as you right now.

I've got extra tps for sale if yall are interested

I noe wat my problem was i was usin the stock headers once i did an upgrade with an ebay header the chokin stoped .... one question is it possible to put a ve head on the de high port ? nd how would it respond if sumone would calculate the specs that would be apprciated thnksz

basicly if it chokes down at wot it more points to an ignition problem or a maf problem. My buddies car did this it would hit about 6k and just go flat and make no power and misfire as well, his turned out to be the maf.

However some hondas that ive worked on that had old plugs in it that were soo old the gap was like .090 or more would run fine while cold and light throttle, as soon as you would go more than 1/2 throttle and especially full throttle, no power and would just not go anywhere. Basicly it was a plug issue, it wasnt getting a strong enough spark or spark at all under wot to even ignite the fuel. Check your plug gaps and your wires, if you have a spare set of wires i would swap them out. Also check your coil, same issue if you dont have a strong enough spark it will do that.

Last thing would be the maf. I dont think the tps is your problem, I can have the tps way way off and the car will still run fine. Volatages your looking for are .37-.45 throttle closed and 3.95-4.01 volts wide open. Again i doubt thats your issue but you should still fix it.

I need a VE tps or equivalent..







It doesn't choke everytime..

In fact I can run my car hard for a half hour of straight racing then like
on the way home it does it. It happens when its hot.

Its not plugss, its not dizzy, its not rotor, its not cap, its not wires..

My tps reads 3.02xx at wot when adjusted all the way over.

i am working with similar problems with someones car...it has new plugs, fairly new cap/rotor/wires...i fixed an issue with it popping main power fuse as soon as you turn the key(part of harness was pinched and bare wire was hitting intake manifold) now and right before that happend the car will idle fine when it gets warm, free rev without issue when warm, you can drive the car but have to be extremely light on the gas, will cruise at highway speeds but if you go more than 2/3's throttle or try to floor it (at any time) it just dies out and sputters, also happens when you take off and try to do so slowly, if you give it half throttle and slip the clutch out it will take off but if you try do take off slowly without making much noise it sputters. car is a rat and has all kinds of stupid electical stuff and gay lights EVERYWHERE. i think the car has a bad electrical issue and needs to be put to sleep lol

the following has been done so far
-new harness- from ecu out
-tried swapping ECU with another
-new TPS adjusted correctly-MAF voltage is also correct(does not exceed .09 or .9, whatever it is)
-new plugs(checked cap and rotor, they are new, wires were installed at the same time)

and let me add the following, this kid cant keep his hands out of the car, ill fix something he gets in there and F's with the car and he doesnt know a dam thing about cars