Welcome to the SR20 Community Forum - The Dash.
Register
SR20 forum logo

Thread: Custom VE to DE (RR) TB Adapter Plate

+ Reply To Thread
Posts: 21-30 of 36
2011-07-28 01:36:44
#21
Originally Posted by B15NEOVVL
OBD11. Actually I think it's your old R/T....V1? I guess that would make sense that a P11 harness could work. I guess it would work with all of my sensors and hook up to the ECU, just more work I guess. How much do these harnesses go for? $50?

I didn't pay $250. The company that made it for me suggested they would charge between 200-250 for it to be profitable for him because of the time. If you think about it the apex-i unit is a two piece so it involves more gaskets and chances for problems. I definitely didn't need this piece to be that intricate but its a nice experiment. I don't mind paying a couple hundred bucks for a few months of steady idle. At the time I was so busy with my business so I had no time to do anything else and this worked out perfect for me.

I'm glad you car is running well now. Hopefully mine will be there soon.

Question: when you ran that blue/red wire from your ac compressor, is this also the wire that comes out of the alternator and goes to the compressor? Signal wire when the A/C gets turned on? Did you splice into it?

Edit: I just installed a new HP line for my A/C but I don't know much about A/C..


Oh really? Did you get it from Keo? That thing served me well, I hope it serves you well too . That's a 1996 ECU, keep that in mind when dealing with emissions.

A new engine harness will probably be around $75-100. It's worth it because you don't have to do a step down harness and it should have all of the modern plugs. Now I would try to find out if it will work on the B15 before scouting for one. But last time I checked P11's and B15's where about 100% identical.

Whew I'm glad you didn't pay that much!

The AC wire from the compressor goes to the AC relay. I'll be uploading some wiring diagrams to show all of this . Alternator wire goes directly to the battery, that would be always on.
2011-07-28 01:46:53
#22
Yes, Keo is the man! I'm hoping it helps with emissions. My car is running so rich I would fail a sniffer test at 500 yards!

I think they are pretty much the same as well. But I will do some more checking. Thanks.

Cool, thanks for the tips. I look forward to the diagram.

I also look forward to putting my B15 ECU out of it's misery. The poor thing struggles everyday trying to make me happy....and fails miserably!
2011-07-28 02:03:16
#23
Once you get the ECU in you can tune it out and make it not as rich, should see a gas mileage increase too .

Here is the diagram. Blue is what you need to do.

2011-07-28 02:10:06
#24
^ Nice. Thanks, I think I can manage that!
2011-07-28 02:26:14
#25
Originally Posted by B15NEOVVL
^ Nice. Thanks, I think I can manage that!


It's fairly easy. The hardest part is running the wire with the stock wires (so that it doesn't look like crap).
2011-07-28 13:36:55
#26
Originally Posted by B15NEOVVL
^ Thanks. I like it and it made my daily driver a lot less of a PITA to drive.



^ Ya It's a beefy unit but a pain. Too bad Nissan didn't make all the SR bolt patterns the same for the TB's, then we could mix and match as desired. I would love to do a "with and without" dyno on this piece but I don't see how I could. If I remove the adapter plate I wouldn't be able to run the roller rocker TB and I would have to switch back to the VE TB, but that would defeat the test as it would be with a different TB not to mention the adapter wouldn't hook up to the VE TB. It's a no win! If I figure out a way I'll def. do it.



^ Originally when I had the VE TB on I was only using the fast idle adjustment screw. I had to keep the idle at 9000-1000 RPM or the car almost wanted to die and the ECU would search like crazy for the proper idle. The engine would settle and then the ECU would kick in a start trying to adjust it again. This was a PITA as my car is a daily driver right now. My cold idle was messed up to it would start at 1200-1300 RPM and it would go up momentarily to almost 1700-1800 RPM. But I didn't mess with the cold idle adjust much so that's probably why.

He was using his stock RR Ex. mani and ex. piping and intake?!

Im using an AEM intake spec'd for a RR DE, a 2.75" cat-back and a 'Hot Shot' ex. mani made for a B14 SR20DE. It works for now but I really feel like the header is choking the engine. I am going to port match it as best I can very soon! It should help a bit until I put on a custom exhaust from engine to muffler.

Ya mine feels stronger than my DE as well but with the setup I have running I'm sure I'm only getting about 75% of the power I should be getting. That will all change shortly!

As well, the RR Throttle body is actually the same size, 60mm, as the VE but only on the air entry side. For some dumb reason Nissan decided to taper the RR throttle body and narrow it as it gets closer to the plenum. Because of this it steps down to 50 something millimeters. I didn't measure it.



^ Well, just out of curiosity, why couldn't I keep this TB even with a tunable B14 ECU. If I get a step-down harness made for a B15-->B14 then I should still be able to use it, no?? The B14's all ran IACV's but with a different pin-out location. If the harness adapter hooks up all of the B15 wires to the B14 ECU then I would think I would be good to go. This way I could avoid splicing into my harness one more time. Is the B14 DE IACV different? Shouldn't it work fine with a harness adapter?

With all of this being said I may just wire up the VE idle stuff anyway...

Price wise it wasn't too bad. I asked the guy who made it for me what he could make these for and he said he would sell these for about $250. But this includes the adapter, anodized with your choice of colour and all of the necessary hardware. There is a lot of cuts for this piece so more CNC time then a regular square. I got a discount of course!



^ I agree it is a waste and does not run properly, but it works until u can get what you need. It wasn't a complete waste though as I really needed something to fix my idle and it was my only option at that time. This was back in may when I got this piece made. So a few months of worry free driving and a solid idle with one less code is good when it's a daily! I didn't have the info back then that I do now. Even still if you have a P11/B15 and you, for whatever reason, wanted to keep your original stuff because of emissions or some other reason, this is a good alternative. But ya a RR ECU running a VE is NO FUN!

I have read your write up a few times and plan on using it as my reference. Is it still working fine? And thanks for the write-up.



- Great minds think alike! And ya it really is a nice piece. The guy who made it for me did a really good job. The cuts look better than OEM and the unit seals to perfection. Thanks again Justin for all of your help. A mechanic that actually gives a shit about other people's rides!

- It's def. good for what it is designed for. I'm sure there are people out there who are not die-hard tuners who would be happy with a couple of adapter type things and an SAFC or E-Manage Ultimate running their VE. So for these people the idea is good.

- Definitely agree. A tunable ECU is the way to go if you want to maximize your investment!



^ Did you just use bolts on the bottom and gasket sealer up top where the holes didn't match or did you use studs up top?


I am not sure if you can make the rr iacc work with a 16 bit or 8 bit ecu. Iirc vadim said the rr iacv system sucks so there is no point in using it anyway if you don't have to. Also make sure to install a wideband if you already haven't so you don't destroy your engine. Get everything running right first then work out the bugs. I am running codless so its definitely possible.

Sent from my VM670 using Tapatalk
2011-07-28 16:22:59
#27
Originally Posted by fubar1o2
I am not sure if you can make the rr iacc work with a 16 bit or 8 bit ecu. Iirc vadim said the rr iacv system sucks so there is no point in using it anyway if you don't have to. Also make sure to install a wideband if you already haven't so you don't destroy your engine. Get everything running right first then work out the bugs. I am running codless so its definitely possible.

Sent from my VM670 using Tapatalk


Well, If you are running codeless that gives me some hope. I think my new ECU with a wideband, which is on the Agenda as soon as I can get one, will solve some of my issues.

As far as the RR IACV, it def. isn't ideal but if it will work with a B14 ECU and I can get it bored out, it might be worth it. But who knows, I'll probably just get the VE one bored out a few mm while its off the car and then just wire up the AAC and stuff. Probably a better idea!
2011-07-28 16:53:56
#28
If you're boring out the tb I would think that it should be the same size as the intake manifold. Also, I heard someone with a b14 lost power when switching to the xcessive intake manifold. Anyway, good luck with the build. You should b able to run codeless as well

Sent from my VM670 using Tapatalk
2011-07-28 16:55:00
#29
The RR IACV requires a lot of ECU adjustments. To put in into perspective, when switching to a VE or DE ECU, you only use two wires. One is a constant power for the IACV, another is the ecu controlled ground. The four other wires get shielded off.

I don't think even a 16bit ecu can control the RR IACV properly enough to have a good running car.

I also hate RR IACV's, I've had two of them fail on me within months of each other. They are crazy expensive to replace and have too many moving parts.
2011-07-28 17:07:35
#30
Well I think with all things being said the VE TB looks like a better bet. Vadim, I hadn't thought about the 16 bit ECU running a 32 bit TB, but it sounds like a headache I probably don't need.

Fubar1o2 ya I will make sure that it matches the VE plenum opening but I could always smooth away a mm or 2 on the opening if need be?! Thanks for the wishes.

Appreciate everyone's help!
+ Reply To Thread
  • [Type to search users.]
  • Quick Reply
    Thread Information
    There are currently ? users browsing this thread. (? members & ? guests)
    StubUserName

    Back to top