Thread: Knocking noise

i do more than bench wrench.

every engine that ive seen people half ass together like you suggested has lasted a few thousand miles tops. i would never suggest to anyone to "rebuild" their engine while its in the car. i didnt mean for him to do this with the engine in the car. you need to measure things inside an engine. not just bolt it together. just my opinion, ive built quite a few engines and have yet for them to explode. maybe im not doing it right.

either way for the price that ve's are going for these days and the time and money he would have into his "rebuild" he might as well just pick up a new motor.

that is one thought that has crossed my mind. that would give me a DE and a VE lyin around and who knows, maybe someday a VE-T would arise from the ashes =D but yeah im lookin at a couple options now and trying to decide what i want to do.

WHO SAID ANYTHING ABOUT REBUILDING... all your statements are now null and void sir. I was talking about REPAIRING. Replacing a bearing is common place with the engine still in the car. Also since you failed to even come to a conclusion as to how to measure rod ID with the rod and piston in the car.. once again... talking smoke like you've done something. Seriously, you should see my "half assed work" in fact my half assed 3 hr spare engine build using all crappy ebay headgaskets and studs and some no name brand bearings with OEM rings did 152HP at the wheels with only S4 cams, and lasted over 9K miles until he decided to go turbo, then the head lifted after 2K of being on boost. And still had 180PSi compression across the board. Seriously, you're a bench wrencher...good day sir.

lol its very common place to replace bearings in a motor that has slight knock. If its heavy knock more likely than not the crank is too scored to do so and the rod is out of round from the heavy knocking. It doesnt take much to make the rod out of round either. Ive replaced rod bearings on several occasions and most are still out there running today. Others were just too far and it was a temp fix. The rod bearings cost a whole 30 bucks and silicon for the pans. thats it for cost. Just needed it to last a couple months which it did before finally spinning again. That was on a motor with very heavy knock and yeah rod cap was hard to remove making it pretty obvious that it was out of round. Bearing still lasted about 5k miles and 6 months before spinning again. But we knew it was inevitable. He just needed time to finish his VE build. That was on the original 155k mile motor in my buddies 200sx se-r that he has had for over 10 years and always raced and always abused.

Just have to look for the two obvious signs which is the crank scoring and rod out of round. Usually go hand in hand. Then it might not last long if you replace the bearings. Although the ACL's will last longer than the OEM's being they are a harder material and the tab that sits in the grooves are stronger and wont break as easy so its very likely ACL's would still last a while again and they are cheap. Like 32 shipped for the standard race bearings, non coated.

VVVV Halfassed rebuild after 800 miles Hmm no smoke, no hickups, no knocking, and 152 WHP to boot without any real performance parts installed, basically do the math 170 Crank HP, 30 HP more than factory.... ya half assed. The same car with that same engine did 236 WHP as well without the S4 cams on a T25. Now it has an S15 Ball bearing turbo and also a fully refreshed JDM SR20DET engine on stock everything. Lets see how that one handles it. That engine lasted over 12K miles and IMO the final weeks of its life was poorly taken care of, and the owner even admits that it was his fault, a build flaw happens within 1K miles no matter what engine it is.

im glad someone sees things my way. do things once and do things right. if you can get away with not machining anything then more power to you. its a cheap fix and everyone wins.

david NA, i dont really care how your engine lasted 800 miles and made X amount of power. you can build or repair engines your way and i will continue to do things my way. if you have never had an issue then good for you i dont care. i know my way is the correct way (for me and most engine builders) so thats what im going to continue doing.

as far as the bench wrenching goes. have i met you? have you seen my work? i thought not. keep your stupid e-insults to yourself. like i said, you do things your way and ill do things my way.

now, good day sir....

Again there is a difference though your not realizing. There is a difference in building an engine than trying to fix rod knock. If your building an engine I would hope you use parts in good condition such as a crank that is not scored at all, Rods that are either new or in good condition and check out good on the measurements and so on.

Nothing wrong with reparing rod knock on a motor by simply replaceing the bearings. It all depends on how long you want it or need it to last. Like I said if its heavy knock and the rod is out of round slightly the new bearings are not gonna last long. Some ACL's with just normal driving meaning no reving past like 4500-5000 will last probably 8-12 months. If it was light knock and no major crank wear and rod is still good New bearings will last a long long time of abuse and redlining the motor and so on without problems.

Its all what you want. Big difference between building a motor and fixing a motor.

agreed^ but in my opinion its still worth removing the engine to measure things rather than just putting in a bearing and hoping for the best. its just how i do things. everyone does things different so. yeah its up to the owner and budget.

well with my budget/time, etc. i will prolly end up having to throw a bearing in and hope for the best. gotta have a car for work and im car less right now

ok so stop running that engine. the more you run it, the more chance it will fail sooner down the road.