Thread: Knocking noise

[size=7][color=red]most definitely rod knock... Do what i posted and you'll be fine, it's very early wear, rods are still ok more than likely. ..stop driving it and revving it please!!!!! [/color][/size]

You guys are making me worry, today I changed the oil to my VVL and used 10w30 Mobil 1

Do you think this is too thin? Weather is hot over here

^ That's what I put in my VE, but I think I'm going to switch to 10w40 for my next change. Although I've had no problems with the 30.

10w30 is fine if it's a daily, but if your hammering it near red line alot from drag racing or auto x you might want to step up to a 40. Just my 2 cents.

Nissan recommends 20w50 on the non-roller rocker engines, and all the turbo engines I have seen have run the next thicker oil on the scale from their NA brethern. The older G20s that have the similar drive train to the turbo SR20s were recommended to use 20w50 at high temps, but then the sentras of the same year were 10W40 at high temps. All eurocars run variants of 0w40 for mobil1. Go with 20w50 Mobil1 if you live in temps above 90 all day long... BUT MOST IMPORTANTLY... CHECK YOUR OIL LEVEL BEFORE YOU GO FLOG YOUR CAR AROUND THE HIGHWAY!!!

I commute, I'm a very conservative driver and don't use to step on the gas but the weather here is above 90º all day long

The store were out of 40w, that's the reason I got 10w30 instead.

I think I'll keep this oil at least for a month until I get 40w even if is Castrol

Thnx for the input



I guess I could stick with this oil until I go to the track, I'm gonna start looking around in the store if I find something.

Do you guys think a 5 or 10w50 will do the trick?

Well the first number in an oil measurement is actually in regards to winter or W so if your hot all day then 10W is fine. If you live in a cold climate or have winter months then you want a 5W oil for cold cranking. The second number is to rate the temperature an oil can withstand before it breaks down, so the higher the number the greater the resistance to temperature and breakdown. This is what I've been taught anyway.

Pulling the plug wire doesn't always work, only when you've got the very lightest rod knock. I've heard it enough to know what it sounds like, and you've got it.

C

^^^ This....

i wouldnt just throw a bearing in there. make sure you measure the rod and crank for roundness before doing that. generally if its out of round at all it will just trash the new bearing.

but yes it sounds like rod knock to me

...ok I'll ammend this statement...

If you can easily slide the rod cap on and off, then replace the bearings, if you have to pry the cap all the way off and the rod bolt threads are scraping all time as you remove the cap, your rod is out of round. Also... LMK how you can measure out of round on the Connecting rod with the crankshaft and piston rod assembly still in the engine and engine in car. My method was to get it back on the road minimal time and with that light of a knock, very slim to none chance of the rod end being out of round. Thanks for bench wrenching.