Thread: Just Saw These On EBAY

Hey miko do you have any hlsd's from the spec-v transmissions?

Just wait it out. Ve's used to go for like 1300 plus. Now they are below 800. Eventually the 20Vs and VETs will be more common at the Japanese junkyards. When that surplus happens then it'll be good times for all of us FWD people.

I've read some posts that the 20Vs aren't that much better than the Sr20VEs. As for the Sr20vet. Yeah they are the most advanced turbo Sr20s but the power made with Sr20dets with VE heads isn't too shabby. The VETs just offer the convenience of factory engineering.

Where are you reading this? I need to see where this diarrhea is spreading!

20V advantages over regular SR20VE....

1. 70mm throttle body (60mm on standard SR20VE)
2. full eight-counterweight crank (four on SR20VE so the 20V is heavier but the 20V is also better balanced for whatever application the end-user wishes to use it for) Higher revs want balance more so than lightweight for speed.
3. 34.3mm inconel valves with 5.5mm valve stems that are cut back from factory to further decrease friction (lighter and less restrictive) "port sizes are the same on exhaust, but smaller stem valves, inconel exh valves. the intake port design is better aka for more for mid-range torque" -Greg Vogel
4. The 20V head flows the most out of any factory Nissan VVL head. The ports are the same size, but how the port is designed inside is totally different and more effective than any other Nissan stock, from factory, VVL head. More than the N1 head, ask Charles because he flow bench tested the thing.
5. 11.0:1 compression ratio (vs 10.3:1 on normal SR20VE engines)


20V rocks.

That's all well and good but are you telling me that 20Vs are worth a 3600 premium for 17 more hp?

It has fly by wire throttle though so you need an N1 TB too. For most people driving these on the street the 4CW has been performing fine for years with bearing failures being quite a rare occurrence.

I am not telling you anything except facts. How you wish to quantify any purchase is up to you.

You want me to try and put a value on something? Impossible. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder.

Stop quoting me, god dammit!

Doing a regular SR20VE swap along with N1 cams, SSAC and catback has become very common, a great power to the buck ratio but I think that it's all about your taste, I'd spend the extra money for a 20V of course but a regular SR20VE with the right mods will do the trick, ask the guys runing larger bore or even 92mm crank.

20V is fancy sh!t

True it's personal taste type thing. However you take the the guy who blows 3600 extra on a 20V and the guy who uses the 3600 on top of a standard Sr20ve. The guy with the standard VE will have the stronger engine.

Second thing I'd like to say is that the 4cw crank would probably be the choice to have for a street car that isn't at high revs for long periods of time. Its lighter so more rev happy, which is a fun thing to have for a street car.

The 8cw crank and girdle can be taken from a DE and used on the Sr20ve.

You do get a 6 speed trans, but you also have to spend more money on top of that to get it running right on a b13/p10/b14.

Shite a worked VE with a DE trans + a quicker final drive. Would own a stock 20V + six speed swap.

However, the guy that bought the 20-valve, would probably also be more than willing to spend another 3-4 grand on top of the standard 20-valve.

I wonder what the 20-valve could do with all the best bolt-ons, including cams if appropriate, and an excellent tuner? How it would measure up against a normal VE mod for mod? Hmmmmmm......

Please keep all reason, business sense and fiscal responsibility out of this discussion.