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Thread: Engine cranks but won´t Start

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Posts: 1-10 of 15
2011-06-24 01:29:02
#1
Engine cranks but won´t Start
Hi I´m new at the forum and have a couple of questions wondering if any of you could help me.
Here´s the deal I have a SR20ve 20v and mount it on a B15 chassis everything was going great it worked for about 3 months until I blew the head gasket. After Blewing the head Gasket I shaved the head engine just in case. Put it all together again and change spark plugs, change sparks put a colder ones NGK iridium LFR7AIX.
Here is the engine Setup:
EagleRods
CP pistons 12.5:1
N1 cams
N1 70mm Throttle body
Stock injectors 355cc at 3 BAR
stock header 4 2 1 end up in 3inches
aftermarcket FPR
WALBRO 255Lts Fuel Pump

What I have done to the engine:

As mencioned before Shave the engine head after that the compression is a little high. test compression: Cylinder 1 295psi, Cylinder2 300psi, Cylinder3 300psi, Cylinder4 300psi.
I test the injectors on Test Bench and the are ok, they prime as brand new 355cc. Check fuel pump pressure and throws 4 bar constant, check it with the FPR that has a manifold.
Test my Dizzy on another engine and start right up.
Check the timming and its ok did it with the FSM of a P11 the marks on the cams are the same the only diference its the Crank pulley it has only 4 marks the pink one is 0° so set it up with that one.

so basically have spark fuel pump and injectors are are primming have enough compression but engine still doesn´t start.

In advance thanks for the help.

will try to post some photos of the timming and compression
2011-06-24 02:11:36
#2
is it not getting fuel or spark? also stock injectors are 333, check for any loose grounds.
2011-06-24 02:19:13
#3
I have spark on the engine on four cylinders. und all the injectors are priming on the engine also. thats the weird thing I have spark fuel and compression.
It was running it was working but after the rebiuld just don´t want to start.
I have check for open circuit on the harness but they are ok there are no open circuits.
2011-06-24 02:20:22
#4
.............................
Originally Posted by sadday76
Hi I´m new at the forum and have a couple of questions wondering if any of you could help me.
Here´s the deal I have a SR20ve 20v and mount it on a B15 chassis everything was going great it worked for about 3 months until I blew the head gasket. After Blewing the head Gasket I shaved the head engine just in case. Put it all together again and change spark plugs, change sparks put a colder ones NGK iridium LFR7AIX.
Here is the engine Setup:
EagleRods
CP pistons 12.5:1
N1 cams
N1 70mm Throttle body
Stock injectors 355cc at 3 BAR
stock header 4 2 1 end up in 3inches
aftermarcket FPR
WALBRO 255Lts Fuel Pump

What I have done to the engine:

As mencioned before Shave the engine head after that the compression is a little high. test compression: Cylinder 1 295psi, Cylinder2 300psi, Cylinder3 300psi, Cylinder4 300psi.
I test the injectors on Test Bench and the are ok, they prime as brand new 355cc. Check fuel pump pressure and throws 4 bar constant, check it with the FPR that has a manifold.
Test my Dizzy on another engine and start right up.
Check the timming and its ok did it with the FSM of a P11 the marks on the cams are the same the only diference its the Crank pulley it has only 4 marks the pink one is 0° so set it up with that one.

so basically have spark fuel pump and injectors are are primming have enough compression but engine still doesn´t start.

In advance thanks for the help.

will try to post some photos of the timming and compression


Reversed fuel lines? pull the dizzy off the motor and leave it plugged in. Then pull one of the spark plugs and put a spark plug in it. with the key on spin the dizzy by had and see if u get spark and hear the injectors clicking.
2011-06-24 02:37:47
#5
Just Did the test as BLUERB240 said and here are the results:
I reverse the fuel lines but didn´t get any pressure so I return it as it was before.
Turn the key on the ON Position with the dizzy hook of the cam, turn it by hand and I can hear the injector clicking. Pool out a spark put against the block but didn´t get any spark. put it back on when turn the key to START I do get spark.

Thanks for the reply
2011-06-24 03:07:06
#6
Very weird. Did you put the injector clips on the proper way? Any clips that are not plugged up? Maybe something under the dash? All fuses good to go? Do you have the main ground going from the block to the chassis? I would look over all the basics like that to eliminate them from being a factor. We had a little issue starting my cousins today but turns out his ecu grounds were not bolted onto the intake manifold.
2011-06-24 03:39:48
#7
The wiring seems to be ok, got one main ground from the block to the chassis directly. All the harness grounds reroute them under the glove compartment. I clear the engine bay completly the Battery it´s on the trunk. so there are no grounds on the engine block, just the main one. Double check and there are no fuel leaks. The ecu has grounds because theres spark and also send the signal to the injectors.

thanks for the opinion anyway
2011-06-24 03:54:02
#8
Here are the pictures of the timming. And exaust cam position for the dizzy, FPR also

Pictures by sadday76 - Photobucket
2011-06-24 05:45:25
#9
Originally Posted by sadday76
Just Did the test as BLUERB240 said and here are the results:
I reverse the fuel lines but didn´t get any pressure so I return it as it was before.
Turn the key on the ON Position with the dizzy hook of the cam, turn it by hand and I can hear the injector clicking. Pool out a spark put against the block but didn´t get any spark. put it back on when turn the key to START I do get spark.

Thanks for the reply

Something similar happened to me, and it was a problem in the starting switch. When in the ON position and moving the dizzy by hand, the injectors would click and I had spark, but when I crancked the engine ("START position" on the ignition switch) there was no power, the only thing that was getting power was the starter. So It all came to the conclusion that the ignition switch was bad, all I did was replace this part -> SMP/STANDARD US-362 Switch, Ignition Starter | eBay
Hope some of that helps!
2011-06-24 13:21:26
#10
I put a 12v bulb on the positive cable of the dizzy and the ground of the bulb put on the engine Block. The results are: with key on the ON position the bulb is on. Whith the key on START position the bulb still is on. Had this essue before and fix it by placing a new relay.

Thanks for the reply
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