Thread: Cold rev is really high.....

I just re-installed my TB coolant lines yesterday so I finally have the ability to have a cold idle again. I had it off before (cold idle screw all the way in) because without the coolant it would stay at 1500-2000 RPM. Now I have it set at 1400 RPM cold idle. I have a newly discovered leak in the TB but that is just another chapter in my VE joy!

Also, your IACV screw might need adjusting.

As far as your TPS. I had the exact same issue with my VE TB. I had to adjust two things. The first issue I had was that the fast idle adjustment screw (on top) was too long. So, when the throttle plate was opened all the way the throttle plate stopper was hitting the head of the fast idle screw and only giving me a max TPS voltage of....i think it was 3.09v or something like that. I removed the screw and shortened it with a diamond cutting wheel. At that point my throttle opend up all the way but I was still seeing a max TP voltage of 3.29v. Basically you have to unhook a EVAP vent sensor in the rear of your car by the driver's side rear wheel/fuel tank area. The TPS power wire on the B15 also controls this sensor and the B15 ECU puts out more voltage for this requirement. But when you run a B14 ECU the TPS power wire only puts out enough voltage to run the TPS. When I unhooked it, my max TPS voltage went to about 4.00v. Problem solved for me.

I have my idle TPS at .52 and WOT is around 4.00ish now.


I think you might be in the same boat!

See here:

Read from post #21 to post #25 http://www.sr20-forum.com/tuning/49938-tuning-my-calum-r-t-2.html

I got this info courtesy of Vadim: http://www.sr20-forum.com/howtos/47198-how-modify-00-p11-b15s-work-older-ecus.html

Hope this helps!!

Are you saying there is a 3rd screw? I have the black screw on top screwed in all the way. I tried to unscrew it too. It didn't do anything. I also messed with the idle screw on the throttle body which did nothing. I am pretty sure i have no obstructions of any kind since after my car warms and and i turn it off then turn it back on a couple seconds late it idles normally at around 900, but later on gets messed up anyway. Another issue is that my idle was bumped a little on Nistune, but i dont think it's causing the problems i'm having. Either way, I just got a DE throttle body, so i'll be installing that and hopefully that will resolve my issue.




Those links are helpful. I'm definitely disconnecting that EVAP plug in the rear that i didn't no about. BTW i had the same distributor issue as you. People told me i have a bad distributor, but when i replaced it, it still threw that code, until my someone else told me i was missing a wire.

Thanks for everyone's help! Much appreciated.

No worries. Hope you get it worked out. Just an FYI though, there is a black plastic cage that covers this area and you will have to remove it to get at the black plug which is in further than the green plug from the side of the car. Be careful when you loosen the bolt/nut holding the cage up, it will be rusted and will snap in half. Don't ask me how I know this. I would let it soak in some WD-40 or PB Blaster for a few minutes before trying to loosen. Mine is currently being held up with a zip-tie. No big deal though.

I'll keep that in mind. Thanks.

I'm in Canada so it's very cold in winter, i started my car at -30 once last year

My rpm was at 2900rpm when cold, i ajusted it and now it's 2500rpm when cold, for 3 minutes, when it gets hot, it's at 1000rpm, but aslo when i ajusted this, my car has a bad idle in summer and the idle is bouncing back at 500rpm and 800rpm, i have to keep my foot on the gas a little bit so it stays at 1000rpm i would like to fix this for next summer, you guys got any idea?

Can i just ajust the idle to fix this?

Maybe i should just ajust it to where it was before(for summer)

Ok guys here is all i got about this

i did a research a year ago and this is very usefull:



********************
For your issue with the car staying at 3000-3500:

There is a cold idle screw under the VE throttle body which may need to be adjusted.
It has a 8mm nut with a allen head adjustment. It usually has to be turned in.


On VE motors the cold start idle is on the TB. The water tubes that go in and out of the TB is past
of the cold start setup. The funny looking part of the VE TB is the cold start valve. The is an adjustment
screw that is there. When the part on the side gets hot the plunger goes in allowing the TB to close.
So if you adjust the screw thing you can vary the cold start idle.
Please note to get the right TPS reading and cold start RPM you will be back and forth with the 2
because you are rying to get .44-.50 at warm idle. So set you cold start first then go and set the
TPS once the motors is warm. What I am saying is the cold start affects the TPS reading because
it moves the TB plate as you adjust it.


The fsm proc for setting idle without a consult pretty much works for the VE.
With Dre's help, this is what I've done:
For the cold air idle, take an 8mm box end for the lock nut and a 4mm (I think)
allen, screw IN the set screw a good ways - almost but not quite flush with the
locknut (don't want to strip the threads). That ought to take your cold idle down
to somewhere around 1500-2k.
Warm it up.
With everything warm and plugged in, hold revs at 2k for about 2 minutes,
then race it to 3-3500 a couple times, shut it off, unplug the tps, fire
it back up, rev it a couple times, let it settle down. CHECK to make sure your
timing is where you want it. (the proc is the same for base timing, ususally 17
degrees btdc at around 800 revs) CLOSE the IACV knob on the VE manifold (turn clockwise from the passenger side)
DO NOT tighten hard. Assuming it's still running, set your base idle to where you want it with the idle
set screw on the throttle (it's on top between the cable wheel and the tb). I know this isn't in the fsm,
but this way you get to use the IACV knob to fine tune when you're done. I did 900 using the tb set screw
as mine idles relatively smoothly there and I don't shake the woman out of the passenger seat.
MAKE SURE it's open enough so that the throttle plate isn't binding in the tb (you'll feel it stick
if it's too far closed, open it up at least enough so that it doesn't bind as you open it.).
Shut it down, plug the tps connector back in, fire it up, go fiddle with the IACV knob to your
heart's content, and you should be home.



AND - after messing with things a lot, including setting tps, the ecu needs to get taught to rethink
things - simply: at idle (warm), unplug the tps connector, WAIT for 5-10 seconds until the ecu finally
figures out the tps isn't there anymore, your obnoxiously persistent fast idle will drop to around 700
unless you've closed both the AAC valve and the throttle plate all the way, in which case it'll die.
Plug the tps back in and the ecu will bring idle back up to 750-850 or so. THEN check your tps voltage,
THEN do your base idle stuff. TPS voltage on a DE should be .5; a VE, according to Miko, .48 with throttle
plate CLOSED. You can set tps with engine off if you have a consult. Coolblackser taught me to reset the

Today I unplugged the below plug. I believe my B15 is slightly different. The plug i unplugged was grey. There was no back plug. Either way it worked. I reset my TPS when car was fully warmed up to .48V at no throttle and 4.17V at WOT. My idle is steadily around 900 now.