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Thread: SR20VE+T Turbo

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Posts: 1-10 of 32
2011-04-03 23:36:50
#1
SR20VE+T Turbo
Sorry if this has been covered in detail before, but I've done some searching and haven't seen anything conclusive.

Here's the deal, I'm going to be starting an SR20VE+T turbo build in a few months here, I've been running a stock SR20VE set up for about 2 years now. I'm planning on doing a complete tear-down and rebuild including:
8CW
ACL rod & main bearings
Eagle H-beam rods
CP pistons 9:1
ARP studs
Cometic MLS head gasket
N1 (or Franklin stage 3 cams depending on what my budget will allow)
dual spring and titanium retainers (probably from BC)
Xcessive performanc N1 plenum kit

anyway, the list could continue. But my question is this, I've read the builds on here any other forums of people doing monster builds and crazy huge horsepower with PT62's or GT35R's just completely insane numbers! and its awesome! I commend them for their work.

But.... I'm not looking to break any HP records. I'm hoping to build a ve+t worth 380 - 400ish HP. So I'm pondering what turbo to choose. Possible GT3071R or GT3076R? I know the GT2876R and disco potato are rated to meet the HP I'm looking for, but I also want a turbo that won't crap out at high RPM and will be able to still make power 8k+ rpm. So I would be worried to go with a GT28 as its a relatively smallish turbine. I know its great for DET's but power is usually dropping off around 7K.

A few people have been talking about and giving advice to go with a GT30 turbo but I've never seen anyone actually do it.

Any thoughts?
2011-04-03 23:43:32
#2
one of the locals to me ran a gt35r and i ran an good ole gti-r t28. on our ve-t's.
2011-04-03 23:54:57
#3
I like the GT3071R for your goals. If you want to delay boost onset maybe to help keep traction then go with the GT3076R and low boost to keep a more N/A type curve.

I would add a block girdle to your list of VE upgrades. Everything else sounds on the money.
2011-04-04 00:48:36
#4
I say shoot for the GTX3071R from what I have heard it gives better topend power over the normal 30R.
2011-04-04 01:11:05
#5
I would go with the VET headgasket or a cosworth headgasket if I had to do it again, and make sure you get the MAZWORKs head stud set, your build looks almost identical to mine. I had the GTiR t28 but it just craps out in higher RPMS, the GT3071 is what I ended up with and I hope it meets my RPM's desires! Best of luck.
2011-04-04 02:17:40
#6
Great info guys, thanks for the responses.

blackb13se-r:
How was your power curve? Do you have any dyno sheets posted? Id be interested to see the power curve from those turbos.

BenFenner:
Good advice, I'll definitely be getting a girdle as well then. Any particular brand you would suggest?

BlueRB240:
Yeah I originally was looking at the GTX3071, I just took another look at it and your right it is a decent turbo, not sure why I had dismissed it originally....

SENTRASER:
How does the MAZWORKs head studs compare to the ARP studs? I'll have to look at them. Also how much power did you end up making with your GT3071? do you have dyno sheets or a build thread?
2011-04-04 02:35:42
#7
I would not any T2 based system on a VET. The low lopes have really good spool effect and work really well with a proper T3 setup (and your also have a little CR on your side by going 9:1..........Not much, but its slightly noticeable)

With that being said, anything GT(X)3071 format would be what I would go with. Its a medium frame setup, so this, with the low lope of the VE and the slight CR, I think would yield a very nice curve and hold all the way to 8k.

A GT30 is also a viable option as they are becoming (relatively) cheap nowadays, so if you could get your hands on one for a good price, I would put a nod in that direction. It will easily support your 400hp (and still have some headroom if need be).

A GT35R is also another very popular option, but there is some increased lag associated with this (and since you are keeping it 2LTR on the bottom end, it might become a hindrance if the car is not a highway bruiser or a drag car)

For the girdle, you can just use one from a DET.

Cheers
2011-04-04 02:44:02
#8
Originally Posted by P10

SENTRASER:
How does the MAZWORKs head studs compare to the ARP studs? I'll have to look at them. Also how much power did you end up making with your GT3071? do you have dyno sheets or a build thread?

3071 isn't on yet
here's a good thread about mazworx studs:
http://www.sr20-forum.com/mazworx/26185-mazworx-sr-head-studs-main-studs.html
no threads on my build, I'm lucky to get it done! lol
2011-04-04 02:44:09
#9
A t3 set up would be alright as I do have a 38mm wastegate, some flanges and springs my brother gave me. However I have found it difficult to track down a tubular exhaust manifold for a FWD SR20. If going that route, I believe I would have to find someone or a shop that would be able to custom make a manifold. I've heard the log style manifolds that are offered not only contribute to a good amount of back-pressure due to limited volume. Two things I've be instructed to avoid as much as possible, back-pressure and heat buildup.
2011-04-04 02:52:24
#10
Originally Posted by P10
I'll definitely be getting a girdle as well then. Any particular brand you would suggest?
OEM girdle from SR20DE(T) engines. You'll also need the matching main caps and bolts. I think you'll also need to clearance the upper oil pan (grind away some of the oil baffles?), or maybe you can run a DE(T) upper oil pan?

While you're in there you could also consider a crank scraper.
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